BarberEVO Magazine

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Laura Davidson

Sector Trade and Confidence Levels Muted

As the National Hair & Beauty Federation publishes its latest State of the Industry quarterly survey, the report shows some level of hope in the industry, with businesses across the hair and beauty sector only seeing a slight improvement in trade, following the lifting of restrictions across the UK. Now 41% of businesses report being either busy or steady, an increase from January’s report which showed just 13% of businesses reporting a steady footfall. 

The previous survey in January reflected the difficult winter experienced by many businesses and whilst there are some signs of sector resilience, there is still not yet the more confident signs of recovery that we saw in September. 

The latest State of the Industry survey found that: 

  • 44% are breaking even, with 30% making a small or good profit (up from 19%) and 27% (down from 40%) are either making a small or substantial loss. 
  • 43% of respondents raised their prices over the last three months. A further 58% will do so over the next three months. 
  • Reliance on external support has reduced from 81% in January, but is still high, with 58% of businesses either partially or completely reliant on Government support. 
  • The numbers of businesses carrying debt has reduced slightly from 54% in January to 42%. However, 63% say that it will take more than two years to clear. 

Staffing, recruitment and apprentices 

  • Recruitment intentions are static; in the next three months, only 17% are definitely or likely to take on new staff (up slightly from 15% in January and down from 27% in September). 
  • Over the last three months, 16% have cut back on apprentices (18% in January) and only 9% were definitely or likely to take on apprentices in the next three months. 

Looking to the future 

  • Business confidence in the sector has strengthened slightly, with 57% now confident of their survival (up from 40% in January, but not as high as 63% in September) and a significant 38% unsure that they will survive over the next six months until the end of September 2022. 
  • Growth intentions are a little more muted than previous surveys, with 38% saying that they intend to grow their business (down from 42%), 44% to remain the same size and 17% planning to downsize or handover the business, similar to January. 

The latest survey findings show that the sector remains fragile, as it faces a perfect storm of rising costs for staff, energy and supplies. 

“More than a third of the industry is unsure that they will survive over the next six months until the end of September 2022.”

The longer-term future of the personal care sector depends on business owners being able to afford to keep and take on staff. Employment intentions remain flat and there is no sign of a recovery in salons taking on apprentices in the near future. The emergence of a skills crisis is clear as the data shows that current initiatives are continuing to fall short of the mark. 

The NHBF is therefore calling for the following: 

  • An increase in the 50% discount on business rates for 2022-23 and flexibility on repayments of CBILS (Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme) and bounce back loans to offer much needed support to those suffering financial hardship. 
  • The reintroduction of the Job Retention Bonus (£1000 per eligible employee) through to the autumn of 2022 to sustain jobs and businesses and restraint on further increases to the National Minimum Wage and apprenticeship rate until such time as the sector can continue its recovery. 
  • More attractive apprenticeship incentives to employers, focusing on the development of affordable apprenticeship schemes specifically for small businesses in order to make it financially viable for them to recruit and retain apprentices. 
  • Continued consultation between the sector and UK and devolved governments to tailor future guidance in a clear and accessible way with more forward thinking to plan and implement any future changes giving businesses adequate time. 

Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive said: “After a difficult winter for the sector, trade and confidence levels are similar to where they were in July 2021. We are grateful for all the government support provided to the sector to date. However, continued support from each national government is needed through the recovery phase, particularly in the form of incentives for apprenticeships to fuel the future talent pipeline of the personal care sector. With this targeted support, the sector will be in a position to play a key role in sustainable economic recovery, wellbeing and thriving high streets.” 

The survey received 913 responses between 29 March and 6 April. It gathered views from a sizeable representation of businesses in the personal care sector across all areas including city centres, town centres and villages in England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales. 

Respondents included salon or barbershop owners, chair or room renters, home-based business owners, mobile or freelance practitioners, employers and the self-employed. Over three-quarter (76%) of respondents were salon or barbershop owners, 20% are self-employed individuals and 18% involved in the wider space renting, mobile and freelance part of the sector; this is either the sole focus of their business or in addition to them being a salon or barbershop owner. 

In 2019 the NHBF reported that UK’s 45,000 salon business’ (hair, beauty and barbershops) delivered a combined turnover of £8 billion. 

Introducing Happy Paul: A New Self-Care and Wellness Brand that Supports Men’s Mental Health

A unique and mood lifting fragrance that wants to put a smile on your face. 

75% of suicide deaths are male (ONS, 2020) – it has never been more important to support mental health, especially with men. 

Happy Paul has one mission – to support mental health with self-care and a smile. How? With the launch of an array of self-care products for men that are infused with an award-winning fragrance, Bright Spice. The fragrance aims to trigger a little happy from the outside in with an array of notes: 

  • Top notes: Bergamot, Spearmint, Lemon, Eucalyptus, Pink Peppercorn, Cinnamon Bark. 
  • Middle notes: Frankincense, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Jasmine. 
  • Base notes: Cedarwood, Vetivert, Sandalwood, Musk. 

From an Eau De Parfum and Roll-on Fragrance Oil to Body and Hair Wash, Cleanser, Scrub and Moisturiser, this collection exists to lift one’s mood and encourage a little bit of effortless, everyday self-care. 

Happy Paul was conceived by a not-so-happy Paul (Founder, Paul Gerrard), a lifelong sufferer of depression, and who has spent much of his life looking for happy in all the wrong places. Happy Paul aims to change an ‘all or nothing’ approach to wellness by creating products that encourage simple, rewarding acts of self-care. 

“For me, a smile is the most basic and yet dynamic form of self-care. It is restorative, transformative, and completely contagious.” says Founder, Paul Gerrard. “I set out to create a mood lifting fragrance. That made me feel happy. I hope it makes you feel happy too.” 

A percentage of profits from each sale goes to mental health charity www.youngminds.org.uk – Young Minds is the UK’s leading charity fighting for children and young people’s mental health and has a core focus on self-care. 

Happy Paul products are vegan and only tested on human folk. Happy Paul will always intend on doing what’s best for you and your world. 

Let’s put a smile on some faces. 

Happy Paul products are available through selected salon and spas and online at www.happypaul.co.uk

The Hair & Barber Council and HABIA commit to working together

The Hair and Barber Council and HABIA have had a mutual respect and shared goals for many years, this has now been further strengthened by an affiliation agreement, underlining their joint quest to improve the quality and standards of training and education in the sector. 

Both organisations are dedicated to ensuring the highest level of professional expertise in the sector, and this joint initiative can only serve to promote these ideals. 

Keith Conniford, Registrar of the Hair & Barber Council said: “Having spoken extensively over recent months with Joan Scott of HABIA, it quickly became very clear that the Hair and Barber Council was aligned totally with HABIA in their continual quest to improve the quality of training and education in the sector. As a past private training provider myself of 25 years, the training and education of young people entering our sector has always been a massive priority for me. These young people are the future of our industry and deserve the very best start we can give them. As the Government approved body responsible for setting the standards in the hair, barber, and beauty sector, I totally support and applaud HABIA’s huge ongoing commitment to the raising of standards in our sector”. 

Joan Scott, of HABIA said: “The Hair and Beauty Industry Authority (HABIA) and the Hair and Barber Council (HBC) have worked together for many years, with a mutual respect and a shared vison for a regulated sector.  With the proliferation of very short, unregulated courses, our partnership becomes even more important, so together we can champion high standards, professionalism, and mandatory regulation across the hair, barbering and beauty sector”.   

For more information, go to: haircouncil.org.uk, Habia.org.

The 53rd Edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has Come to an End

Great results for the 53rd edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna. Visitors from more than 140 countries attended the event, discovering the novelties andinnovations presented by more than 2,700 exhibitors from 70 countries, thanks to theinvestments of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and ITA – Italian Trade Agency as part of projects for the promotion of the Italian beautyindustry in the main markets worldwide.

“We are really proud of the results of the exhibition: Cosmoprof has once again confirmed its role as a reference event for the global cosmetics industry, despite the current complicated scenario. The exhibitors highlighted the impressive professional quality of visitors and the high number of international operators. Europe is confirmed as the main area of origin, but attendance from Asia and the Americas goes well beyond expectations. The African and Middle East markets follow with very interesting percentages in view of future prospects. It was very exciting to see the aisles of the fair come alive with operators from all over the world, concluding orders and discussing new projects. We hope to have offered companies and professionals a profitable experience,” said Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere

The educational events have been particularly popular, too. From Thursday to Saturday, the Cosmotalks sessions brought together visitors to discuss the new trends that will revolutionize the industry. Professional operators appreciated presentations and live demonstrations dedicated to the Beauty & Spa sector, World Massage Meeting and Masterclass. Great enthusiasm also in the theatre in pavilion 37, with the On Hair shows that finally brought together hairstylists and employees in the hair sector. 

“We waited a long time for this 53rd edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna. To finally finding ourselves in the halls of the Bologna exhibition centre was undoubtedly an important moment for our sector, which highlighted the desire to restart. A relaunch that rests on solid foundations. By 2021 the Italian cosmetics sector has shown its ability to react and by 2022, despite the uncertainties of the international scenario, it is estimated to return to pre-crisis levels with the turnover that will return to exceed 12 billion euros. The historic synergy with our partner BolognaFiere Cosmoprof has allowed us to give voice to the excellence of the Italian cosmetic industry, a real flagship of Made in Italy and a strategic sector for the country system”, commented Renato Ancorotti, President of Cosmetica Italia – the personal care association

“This edition of Cosmoprof was extremely positive. Our exhibitors have finally met buyers and distributors from all over the world in person. We are aware that many companies had to give up their presence due to the restrictions related to the pandemic and the war between Russia and Ukraine. For this reason, our match-making system, Cosmoprof My Match, will remain available to our operators also in next days. We want to guarantee the visibility and quality of Cosmoprof business opportunities even beyond the days of the fair. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has strengthened its role as business partner for professionals, and our goal is to guarantee a continuous and performing networking platform,” said Enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will be back in 2023. 

For any further information, please visit www.cosmoprof.com.

Out Now: BarberEVO UK & Ireland Issue 32 – May 2022

BARBEREVO UK AND IRELAND #32 – OUT NOW 

Get your copy here!

Take ‘pride’ in your business

The latest issue of BarberEVO is OUT NOW! This issue is headed up by a shot from the latest Kevin Luchmun Andis Fluid Vol.3 collection.

This inspirational and diverse collection headlines Andis’ new step-by-step educational resource for professionals to learn Kevin’s haircutting process. We also talked to Kevin about the process behind the scenes of shooting the collection and his inspirations on why he chose these styles.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE:

We are all looking forward to June and when Barber Connect brings together the UK’s barbering community and we have a list of some of the big names to look out for. Also, in this issue we are giving away Simon Shaw. Take him, he’s yours! Well, for one day only. Win Simon to come to your barbershop or take your team to the Wahl Training Academy… however you want to use Simon’s knowledge, he’s up for it… nothing weird mind, that’s his only condition! See pages 92-93 to find out how to enter.

PRIDE

Barbershops are all about a welcoming environment and that should mean for everyone. We highlight the barbershops that are embracing gender-neutral pricing and offering a chair to anyone who walks through their doors, no matter their gender or sexuality. Blacc + Blond salon shows us a perfect example of how to be leaders in knocking down barbering gender stereotypes.

We also feature lots of fantastic gender-neutral styles from a selection of top barbers who treat hair as hair, no matter whose head it is on!  

CLIENT COMFORT

How do you make your clients more comfortable… we don’t mean a padded chair! It’s about what other things you do to make the barbershop more welcoming. We talk to the owners of Rag and Bone about their beer vending machine, which has changed the atmosphere of their shop for the better and also to Paul Hewitt of Brislington Hill Barbers which has a coffee shop in-house for the clients and how both the barbers and clients love it.

SHAVING

Shaving services are always going to attract a new clientele and the more luxury you add to the experience the better. We speak to the shaving experts at Murdock about the benefits of having shaving on the menu and we also have a step-by-step from shaving supremo Kevin Vorley, we also have a look at the best shaving products on the market.

ELECTRICALS

The buzz of barbershop activity is accompanied by clippers, trimmers, hairdryers and all sorts of electrical paraphernalia and we have a close look in this issue at barber’s hairdryers with our friends at Rum Barber who pick out the best on the market.

We hope you enjoy this issue! You can order your print copy here. 

The wait is over. Cosmprof Worldwide poised to start.

The most important event for the international cosmetic industry is finally back for in-person attendance: after more than two years, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna inaugurates its 53rd edition, welcoming over 2,700 companies from 70 countries and buyers from 120 countries to Bologna from April 28 to May 2, 2022. 

The 2022 edition responds to market expectations with figures consistent with previous years’ results, despite the complications related to the international scenario. The exhibition center is sold-out: more than 30 pavilions and external structures host the over 2,700 exhibitors present, representing 70 countries26 Country Pavilions, with small and medium-sized enterprises ready to showcase the best of the cosmetic production from Belgium, Brazil, China, South Korea, Ecuador, France, Germany, Japan, Greece, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Latvia, Mongolia, Poland, Czech Republic, Spain, Sweden, Turkey, UK and USA. Cosmoprof is pleasantly impressed by its ability to renew itself and adapt to new business tools. A reassuring fact that brought buyers from more than 120 countries to Bologna. 

“After two years of stopping the exhibition activities, the 2022 edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is a sign of optimism and confidence in the ability of the industry to restart,” says Gianpiero Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere. “In line with safety protocols, manufacturers, companies, and operators worldwide are finally returning to traditional business activities, and the exchange between supply and demand can resume, re-establishing the role of trade shows. The gradual easing of control measures at the entrance of exhibition centers is an acknowledgment from the institutions that we greatly appreciate. This edition of Cosmoprof is a real moment of relaunch for the sector. In recent months, the promotional and support activities of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and ITA – Italian Trade Agency have been fundamental. We will continue to work with institutions to cope with the complexities of the global scenario and accompany our industry on its restart path”. 

“With the Pact for Export, the Italian government is committed to promoting the main international fairs in our country, such as Cosmoprof. As one of the symbols of Made in Italy, our cosmetic industry continues to captivate the world”, states the Undersecretary of State, On. Manlio Di Stefano, Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation

“This long-awaited 53rd edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna confirms a synergy between fair, industry and institutions, which has further strengthened in recent years marked by the pandemic. The entire cosmetic sector has never stopped; on the contrary, it has demonstrated the essential role that its products play in our daily life and the strong dynamism of its companies,  commented Renato Ancorotti, President of Cosmetica Italia.  

COSMOPACK 

The transformation of the cosmetics industry begins with the supply chain. This is demonstrated by Cosmopack, the only fair that hosts all sectors of the supply chain – contract manufacturing and private labels, process and packaging machinery, primary and secondary packaging, applicators, ingredients, and raw materials. 

Cosmopack 2022 will host 9% more exhibition space, with 27% more new companies participating for the first time and exhibitors from 33 countries. The event is the cradle of industry trends: a reference point for discovering the most advanced industrial solutions, which will be the basis for the restart of the industry in the coming months. In particular, the presence of an area specifically dedicated to leading companies supplying machines and full-service solutions makes Cosmopack unique and different from all other international competitors. 

COSMO|PERFUMERY & COSMETICS 

At Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, halls 14, 16, 16a, 19, 21, 22, 26, and 29b will host Cosmo | Perfumery & Cosmetics, with over 1,100 exhibitors of skincare, fragrance, and proposals for the retail channel ready to welcome buyers, distributors and retailers interested in scouting mass-market, prestige and masstige references, including genderless products, designed and created to meet the needs of cosmopolitan and new-generation consumers. 
 
Cosmoprime, the pavilion dedicated to selective and high-end cosmetics, will host numerous premium and luxury brands, icons of trends, and novelties with a strong vocation for sustainability. Within the Zoom on Emerging Prime area, selected companies attending Cosmoprof for the first time in Bologna will bring new ideas on ingredients and formulations and new consumer functional needs. The Extraordinary Gallery will welcome companies with innovative concepts in terms of formula and packaging and brand philosophy that is attentive to the consumption habits of the younger generations. 

Make a Splash with the NEW D38 Power Paddle from Denman

The D38 is one of the most popular Denman brush buys and is the weapon of choice for countless hair professionals. They love it for its quality build and iconic styling pin design along with its ability to combine speed, comfort and control. The D38 detangles, defines curls and push-dries with ease. The new ‘Splash’ colourway is only available to professional customers and has been designed to celebrate the artist in every stylist and colourist.

Price: £18.00 inc VAT 
Dimensions: 24.5cm long 8cm wide 
www.demanbrush.com 

DENMAN supports Blind Aid Charity hair workshop

Blind Aid is London’s oldest sight loss charity and offers a network of volunteers, community projects and social events to deliver meaningful life enhancing aid, skills and experiences across the City. Denman’s International Business Manager, Martyn Wady recently joined a haircare and styling workshop at Hackney Depot run by Session Stylist Anna Cafone (@annacafone) for a blind and partially sighted group. Thankfully Martyn is also a qualified and experienced hair professional which meant that he couldn’t resist pitching in, as well as bringing along lots of tools for the attendees to take away.  

Martyn says “It’s tough to imagine how challenging haircare and styling can be for the blind and partially sighted. I was so pleased to be able to make a contribution to the amazing work that Anna does with Blind Aid. Denman has also worked with the Royal Society for Blind Children, offering tools and online support to blind and partially sighted teenagers. However, this is the first in-person event that we have been able to attend and it won’t be the last.

Martyn taught members of the group the tactile differences between the tools and showed them through touch how to best use them and style their hair to their own satisfaction. Martyn says “It was such an uplifting but also humbling day and I’m looking forward to helping out again soon.

BOOKSY UNVEILS ITS NEW 2022 CAMPAIGN “GET DISCOVERED”

Booksy, the leader in booking and business technology for the beauty industry, has recently unveiled their new 2022 marketing campaign, “Get Discovered”. 

Get Discovered is actually a love story and campaign dedicated to helping beauty professionals find their forever clients through the #1 beauty booking marketplace – Booksy. Just like online dating, any barbershop, beauty pro, salon, or spa can create a snappy, enticing profile, upload amazing work that best reflects their talents, and market themselves to find the right client matches in their area.

Get Discovered also focuses on highlighting one of many things that Booksy does best … connecting people via the Booksy Marketplace. Rather than be another run-of the mill, “all-in-one” booking solution, Boosky shifts the conversation. Powerful marketing and business management tools empower Providers to do more, and the Marketplace is the place where it all happens. 

The Booksy Marketplace allows providers the opportunity to find more of their ideal clients (not just cute calendar features) and retain them. Who wouldn’t love that! 

The Provider’s journey to getting discovered is as simple as these 5 steps: 

  1. Create a Profile – share exactly who you are with the world 
  2. Show your Work – create a Portfolio of your best work and showcase your mad skills 
  3. Get Discovered – put yourself and your business on the map to attract the perfect clients 
  4. It’s a Match! – get booked, paid, and re-booked all using Booksy
  5. Long-term Clients – use the built-in Marketing tools to ensure client retention and repeat business 

Did you know about 68% of beauty professionals are looking for ideas and tools to optimize their business, be more effective and acquire new clients! Booksy can help with all of that.  

Booksy‘s vision and goal is to establish itself as the top marketplace where beauty professionals and providers can discover new clients and keep them returning while promoting their talents. We want our users to thrive business-wise and provide the tools they need to accomplish that in a meaningful, robust, yet easy way. Through the Get Discovered campaign, we are looking to reach new beauty professionals and businesses and underscore our significant and unique advantages in the market,” commented Dee Hadley, Head of Marketing, Booksy

Book anytime, from anywhere. Who wouldn’t want to Get Discovered through Booksy

Fresha breaks into the Marketplace100

As Fresha’s subscription-free salon software continues to gain momentum across the hair, beauty, spa and wellness industries, its global position has been affirmed with its debut entry on the prestigious Marketplace100 : 2022: a highly influential list that ranks the world’s largest consumer-facing marketplace start-ups and private companies.   

Entering the list at 43, the highest ranking of any salon software company in the global hair and beauty market, Fresha’s placing confirms its position as the world’s leading, and fastest growing salon software. 

Delivered by Californian Venture Capital firm Andreessen Horowitz, the Marketplace100 by a16z + Future ranking list is compiled using data based on marketplace activity scores for each company that includes GMV (Gross Merchandise Value), per Bloomberg Second Measure (for companies that Bloomberg Second Measure tracks), as well as Apptopia data for app performance and SimilarWeb data for website traffic. 

“This ranking is a hugely important for Fresha,” says Fresha founder and CEO William Zeqiri. “It confirms that we’re making significant impact on the global stage, and this is driven by a transformation in terms of how our partners have embraced our technology and are using Fresha to manage their businesses. It’s also a reflection of how Fresha perfectly syncs with consumers and the way they now find the ideal salon, and book and pay for services and products online.” 

Formerly known as Shedul, Fresha’s exponential growth is the result of a result of a global investment strategy that has positioned it as the world’s leading, and fastest growing salon software. Backed by New-York based equity firm General Atlantic – backers of tech giants including Facebook, Snapchat and Airbnb, along with separate investors including global beauty entrepreneur Huda Kattan, Fresha has been valued at over $640 million. With over 60,000 partners and 200,000 hair, beauty and wellness professionals using Fresha, the platform has already processed 450 million appointments via its consumer-facing website and app. 

To achieve complete business efficiency, promote your services, run marketing campaigns, retail online and protect your business against no-shows and late cancellations, join or switch to Fresha today…for FREE!