BarberEVO Magazine
Be part of the Barber EVOlution
We were joined by both Eddie Lopez and Jeff Cruz of Scalp Artist International on Wednesday 20th May on EVOLive.
We discussed the amazing business opportunity for barbers that comes from Scalp Micropigmentation – and the ability to teach and provide this amazing service for balding clients.
Don’t worry if you missed it – you can watch the full discussion below!
New 2-piece Hair Gripper accessory gives great hold to enhance cut precision.
Now that you’ve got the right Andis clipper and trimmer for every technical cut, the new 2-piece Hair Gripper pack from Andis is the perfect accessory to refine every style.
Quick and easy to use, the Andis Hair Gripper allows barbers and stylists to hold hair in place, and longer hair out of the way, so you can focus on clipping and trimming each section without interference or distraction. More convenient and effective than hair clips, Andis Hair Grippers are reusable and easy to clean in between each use.
Price: £7.95 for a 2-piece Hair Gripper pack
Discover at www.andis.com Call SPUK on 01635 279 824 for your nearest stockist or buy online https://bit.ly/Andis-Gripper
This in-depth guide is based on government guidelines and includes NHBF recommendations for how these guidelines can be put in place in barbershops and salons, is free to download for anyone in the industry and will be updated accordingly should any government guidelines change.
The guide covers everything from what to do before reopening, to health & safety, taking financial control and advice for chair, space and room renters.
This advice is crucial to getting the hair and beauty industry back on track and gives shop and salon owners and their employees clarity moving forward.
The guide has been developed thanks to the ongoing conversations between the NHBF and the government, helping MPs and government officials see that it is possible for the hair and beauty industry to return to work in a way that is safe for both client and colleague.
The full guide is available to view now: https://bit.ly/3g0Uo4J
In a world gripped by the Coronavirus pandemic, the impact on barbers and hairdressers is profound. As businesses remain closed, incomes continue to be affected and with the industry facing uncertain times, Andis Company was keen to help those falling on hard times. To support the industry and show solidarity with fellow professionals at this time, Andis is delighted to become the newest Sponsor of the Hair and Beauty Charity and boost their Covid-19 Relief Fund on JustGiving with a £1,000 donation.
As the industry’s recognised charity, the Hair and Beauty Charity is perfectly positioned to support professionals in particularly challenging circumstances. It has responded to the Coronavirus pandemic by setting up a Relief Fund on JustGiving and, as Andis Senior Manager – Corporate Communications Bruce Bock says, it’s just what Andis was looking for. “As a company we invest in charitable programmes and projects that make a difference to local communities, so we were especially looking to contribute to a Relief Fund in the UK to help barbers and stylists affected by Coronavirus. The Hair and Beauty Charity does incredible work in support of professionals who find themselves in challenging situations and their initiative to set up a specific fund for businesses affected by Coronavirus is a perfect fit for us.”
Andis joins many leading brands, media partners and industry professionals in their support of the charity and those who are striving to reach the Covid-19 Relief Fund’s £20,000 target.
“In addition to our support of the charity and the Covid-19 Relief Fund, we will be helping to raise its profile through our PR and social media to make barbers and stylists aware of the charity and what it does,” says Bruce. “We very much look forward to working in partnership with the charity and their team.”
Visit the Hair and Beauty Charity visit https://www.hairandbeautycharity.org
Support the Hair and Beauty Charity Relief Fund visit https://www.justgiving.com/campaign/relieffund
For more information on Andis visit www.andis.com
We want to do our best to help you find your new normal once restrictions have been lifted, and safely prepare for the re-opening of your salon for future visits. That’s why we’ve introduced a new feature that will help you easily notify your clients when it’s perfect time to come back into your salon and everything has been prepared to safely start the appointment. Introducing, I’m Ready!
Picture this: the COVID-19 lockdown has been lifted and you’re ready to re-open your business. As the COVID-19 pandemic has changed the way we think about health, safety and hygiene procedures, you’ll want to make every effort to make your clients feel safe during the visit. Many of your customers are looking forward to using your services again, but may still be afraid of being in contact with a large number of people in a small space. That’s why we’ve introduced I’m Ready, a new feature that will help to make your clients comfortable while visiting your salon, knowing that you’ll be ready to give them your undivided attention in a safe space.
Thanks to the new I’m Ready feature, you can easily notify your clients via the Booksy app that they can already come into your salon and start their appointment. Now you can minimize footfall in your salon and reserve some padding time between appointments to sanitize the tools and workspaces, while your client waits outside your salon until you’re ready to go. So if they want to avoid the busier spaces and don’t want to cross paths with other people inside your salon, they can wait until you ask them directly to come in.
3. Clients using the Booksy app receive an SMS or Push notification telling them that you are ready for their visit and they can now come into your salon.
And it’s as easy as that. With our new I’m Ready feature, you’ll be able to give your clients some much needed peace of mind when it comes to heading back out and enjoying their health, beauty and wellness treatments.
Check out what other safety steps you can take to re-open your salon once restrictions have been lifted. Discover our new features like online services and custom forms to help you prepare yourself to bounce right back into business.
The £1.7 Million Haircut tells a personal story about a global issue – men believing that they can’t or shouldn’t talk about their mental health and feeling that there is no way out other than to take their own lives. This is the story about one man’s mission to change this and to saves lives, one haircut at a time.
‘The £1.7 Million Haircut’ documentary recounts the story of a life lost to suicide and an ambition to create safe spaces for men to talk, open up and work towards a world free from suicide.
After the death of his friend Alex, Torquay based barber Tom Chapman founded the charity ‘The Lions Barber Collective’. Its mission is to create non-clinical, non-judgemental safe spaces where men feel comfortable to talk about their mental health and to signpost them to support and information.
Recognising that barbers and hair professionals are often a trusted confidant and friendly ear to their customers, the documentary shows Tom’s efforts to develop a clinically backed training programme (BarberTalk) for hair stylists to support their clients and communities.
With someone in the UK taking their own life every 120 minutes, 75% of them being men, the need for change is more crucial than ever. ‘The £1.7 Million Haircut’ follows Tom taking the challenge head on, to break down the stigma around men discussing their mental health. Tom meets with influential leaders in the South West to expose the stark reality the impact suicide has on communities, healthcare services and the economy.
Tom Chapman said “The economic impact per suicide is something I had not really considered before, loss of earning, loss of employment, inquests into the death, it amounts to so much more than we could ever imagine. It now makes what we are doing as a charity even more important, to save lives and make a difference to families out there who have been subject to such tragedy. I am now making it my mission to create a world free from suicide, how could we ask for anything less?”.
Tom Chapman said “The economic impact per suicide is something I had not really considered before, loss of earning, loss of employment, inquests into the death, it amounts to so much more than we could ever imagine. It now makes what we are doing as a charity even more important, to save lives and make a difference to families out there who have been subject to such tragedy. I am now making it my mission to create a world free from suicide, how could we ask for anything less?”.
Made by ‘Films by Wonder’, the film is produced by Lisa Gardiner, directed by Josh Pratt and demonstrates the charity’s obvious impact on people’s lives. We meet the official ambassadors of the charity, Dan Davies, Darren Birch and Wez Jones who help deliver the BarberTalk training across the country and beyond. Each share their story of helping their clients as well as close personal accounts of the reality of coping with mental health issues – from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder to experiencing suicidal thoughts.
Due for release in May, the documentary builds on the charity’s momentum to become a global movement by training barbers all over the world to recognise when someone is struggling and support them to find further help. And, despite the positive aspects of meeting Prince William, The Duke of Cambridge as well as Tom receiving the Points of Light Award from former Prime Minister, Teresa May, it also shows the reality of the challenges of running a charity. The viewer sees upfront the ever-growing burden of trying to acquire funding and the tough decisions that Tom must make to secure its future.
“Tom’s work has saved so many lives. Suicide is the biggest killer of men under 45. Our fathers, our brothers, our sons. I’d urge everyone to watch this film – not only to hear about Tom’s important work but to also be inspired by the impact that one person can have.”
Dr. Sabrina Rachel Cohen-Hatton, Psychologist and Writer.
“Like Professor Green passed the baton to Tom Chapman, who has run exceptionally, beautifully to the finish line, inspiring thousands in the process.”
Eddie Temple Morris, Producer and Virgin Radio DJ.
“I defy anyone not to be moved by this film or fail to be inspired by Tom’s passion and the commitment of those he has motivated to follow his lead. We must not ignore him. Tom and his Lions Barbers Collective have never felt so important and I wish them heart felt success in going from strength to strength.”
Dr. Annie M Procter MB BCh MSC MD, Director of Mental Health Services, Cardiff & Vale University Health Board.
‘The £1.7 Million Haircut’ is released on 18 May 2020 on Vimeo on Demand. View on Vimeo on Demand: https://vimeo.com/ondemand/millionpoundhaircut
Visit the Documentary website: www.the1point7millionpoundhaircut.com
We were delighted to be joined on EVOLive on Friday 15th May by the founder and owner of the Barbershop Connect platform and Barbercon, Lee Resnick.
We discussed the important matter of ego V education in the barber industry today.
If you missed it, don’t worry… watch it below!
Following the publication of the Welsh Government’s roadmap out of lockdown, the NHBF has welcomed their clarity for hairdressers within their traffic light guidance system.
There are four possible phases to the Welsh system: Lockdown (Black), Red, Amber and Green. Although no dates have currently been allocated to when each phase will play out, the government has listed ‘hairdressing’ as a ‘personal service under appointment’ in the Amber Phase of their roadmap. This is alongside non-essential retail and accommodation businesses (without shared facilities).
The NHBF has already written to the government about its decision to include ‘personal care’ services in Phase 3 alongside hospitality in England. Hairdressing, barbering and beauty are usually included in with retail, for example for the purposes of business rates. Many salons benefit from the retail business rates relief. We have written to the Scottish government in similar terms.
Much like the UK Government’s Covid-19 recovery strategy that was released earlier this week, the Welsh roadmap is subject to continued progress in containing the spread of the virus, and each phase has its own social distancing measures. The Welsh Government has also said that things will not move ‘wholesale’ from one phase to the next, and that changes will be made slowly and with great care.
The NHBF represents 234 salons in Wales, and has already volunteered to support the Welsh Government by calling on their Members who want to take part in any pilot schemes.
Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHBF says, “The safety of our industry has always been our top concern. We welcome the Welsh Government’s clarity that hair and beauty sits alongside retail and accommodation businesses. We will continue our conversations with the UK Government and the Scottish government about where hair and beauty should sit within the plans for lifting lockdown in England and Scotland. We have recently released robust guidelines to our Members and government contacts to show that salons and barbershops can operate safely whenever it’s time to re-open.”
Takara Belmont’s National Sales Manager Katie Wrighton explains how leasing can transform your barbershop, expand service opportunities and boost business income.
Takara Belmont is famed for timeless, iconic design, unrivalled performance and durability. But did you know that our range can be lease purchased, and that we offer a free Salon Design Service for barbershops looking to create an inspirational interior and deliver the ultimate service experience?
With a national distributor network, barbershops can get the best chairs and equipment whilst managing expenditure by leasing. Leasing ensures that you can maximise your service and income potential whilst managing cashflow, as well as benefiting from tax efficiencies. You need to invest in things other than equipment, so buying outright or taking out loans can divert money away from things like training and recruitment. Leasing not only frees up cash resources for other priorities, it enables you to benefit from premium furniture and equipment in a manageable, low interest and tax efficient way with fixed monthly payments.
Leasing also makes sense because buying inferior equipment can cost more in the longterm. The cost of repairs or replacement equipment not only means barbershops typically spend more over time, business can suffer from lost revenues due to service disruption, downtime and equipment failure.
In addition to equipment, Takara Belmont has also designed some of the world’s most inspirational interiors. Our free* concept-to-completion design service ensures your dream of the ultimate barbershop is realised!
Now is the perfect time to look at your equipment options so visit takarahairdressing.co.uk/leasing or email hairdressing@takara.co.uk for your nearest distributor
* Salon Design Service is free subject to equipment purchases and T&Cs. See website for details. Leasing is available through our distributors and not directly with Takara Belmont.
Julius Caesar
Behind the veneered smiles of Los Angeles is a city that has a habit of chewing people up and spitting them straight back out again, but some thrive in the City Of Angels and build an empire. Court is now in session with Julius Caesar. ALL HAIL.
For the last five years, LA has provided the perfect milieu for Julius to grow his product. Combining San Francisco culture with LA swagger, he has incorporated his love of art, music and fashion into his craft. Julius is not a barber; he’s a brand, and is very much the epitome of the opportunities that the modern barbering industry can afford.
‘Barber’ was a title first bestowed on Julius by this mother. Although the San-Francisco native did not come from nothing, he admits he knows what it is like to have very little, and his hard-working mother was always looking for ways to save money. Haircuts were $12 each so she bought a $20 pair of hair clippers and let her artistic son cut the family. Julius, however, quickly developed a passion for cutting hair and became his high school’s de facto barber. Once graduated, he was faced with a decision that lead him to passing up on Art School and University.
Julius was still cutting hair at his home but was also working in retail. He was there to launch to launch the first iPhone and believes working in retail helped him build not only strong customer services skills but also understand the fundamentals of business. When the US recession hit, Julius decided it was time to transform passion into a profession and enrolled in Bayview Barber College. Going back to school in one of San Fran’s most impoverished neighbourhoods was quite the contrast to earning good money in a shirt and tie forty hours a week.
“When it was apparent that I actually knew how to cut I remember the locals would say I had a ‘temporary hood pass’ since I was cutting up everyone on the block! It’s been a crazy journey ever since, but the first moments cutting in my childhood kitchen to being a barber college student in the hood were all part of me falling in love this lifestyle we all know as barbering today. The game is totally different now and I’m glad to see it grow but those humble times when it wasn’t ‘cool’ yet… those are the times I’ll always cherish. What started off as a way to help my family became a hobby, then a career and now a life,” he reflects.
Having soaked up the culture of San Francisco and helped to grow the Fresh Cut brand in Daly City, Julius decided it was time to start the next chapter of his story: open his own barbershop take on a new city. The Big Apple was mooted as his next location but transferring his licences from California to New York made it logistically difficult. Instead, he was drawn towards the beautiful people of Los Angeles.
Like many before him, Julius landed in LA alone with little more than a few connections. He put out an Instagram – where he had already start to make a name for himself – post looking for the best barbershops in the heart of the city. The young barber was ready to hit the ground running. Capsule Barbershop on Hollywood’s iconic Melrose Avenue gave him a taste of celebrity life before he went on to form Grey Matter with shop owner Vince Garcia and Joey Nieves. The polished façade of LA, however, masks the grind, hustle and heartbreak of The City Of Angels.
“Los Angeles has been a roller coaster of ride,” he admits. “I’ve been blessed to have LA take me with open arms. I’ve just surpassed my five year mark in this beautiful place and I’ve seen a lot of people come and go. I’ve seen the overnight success and seen it turn back round and send people flying out the city worse than they came. LA is not for the weak hearted. You can’t be sensitive here, let alone naïve. The land of amazing opportunities is like a jungle. There’s beasts out there fighting for a spot in the kingdom; there’s lions and hyenas. LA has taught me that in the most chaotic of times, if you stick to what you believe in and what you stand for longevity will be awarded to you.”
The heavily-inked barbers stock has continued to rise as he builds his brand incorporating all of his life experiences and passions. Authenticity remains at the heart of Julius Caesar and he implores all barbers to take a similar approach. He feels too many brands and individuals adhere to what others expect rather than what they really are.
“The best advice I can give to some looking to build a brand is find your own story, and when I say that I don’t mean make one up. Too many brands these days make up a story but there’s no core to brands like that. Seek inspiration through life experiences, from the high and lows. Filter out the excess features and build upon the foundation of what truly represents what the brand stands for. It’s important to have a true message and to stick behind it even if nobody else believes in it. Most brands that are successful organically grew from the roots up and those are the brands that hold longevity.”
ALL HAIL: The Pillars Club is the nucleus of the Julius Caesar brand and the culmination of his career and life thus far. More akin to an art gallery, the monochromatic Downtown LA loft is curated to create an elevated male grooming experience. The carefully chosen soundscape pleases the ears while the candles and incense excite the nostrils as you take a seat in the custom Takara Belmont Chair. It is, quite simply, like little else in the industry. Julius explains that the service he provides his client is as bespoke as the setting.
“It’s a private appointment-only curated space built not out of convenience but out of necessity. I humbly don’t see myself catering to a clientele that want just a haircut but specifically come see me to help mould their image. My client base don’t just come to because I’m available; they come to me because I build a strong professional rapport of manufacturing a custom tailored haircut/style made just for them. If you have ever seen the movie American Gangster, what I’m trying to give them is that Blue Magic. Once you get a tick ALL HAIL: The Pillars Club you only find it where it is made available.”
Julius is often asked about the expansion of his empire and his answer, much like him, evolves over time. He has built an impressive foundation for himself and now wants to conquer the world in both hair and other disciplines. He said he wouldn’t open another establishment until he is settled but when the time comes his next move is undoubtedly going to be game changing, and barbering is not the only game he is looking to change
“I want to continue to be involved in other lifestyle aspects and immerse myself more in fashion and brand consultation and development. I’d love to also take my experience as a men’s grooming educator and work towards transitioning into motivational speaking on platforms outside barbering. The future can be tomorrow or it can be five years from now. I’m just thankful for every day I can open up my eyes and take a breath of air again. We literally don’t know what day will be our last, so I plan and manifest for better tomorrows but at the same time live for the now. If I was to go at any moment, my goal is whatever legacy I do leave behind it was made with my whole heart.”
ALL HAIL.
Sofie Pok
For the last eight years, Sofie Pok has worked diligently to perfect her craft under her international ‘Stay Gold’ brand. She has battled rigorously to overcome the industry’s inequalities and now stakes her claim as one of its leading figures.
2017 was a breakthrough year for the LA-based barber however the hair industry almost lost one of its leading figures before she had the chance to make her mark. Sofie initially studied cosmetology but admits she struggled to muster any real excitement for the craft. Before quitting in search of another creative outlet she took the bold step of transition to barbering.
“I thought before I give it all up, because I was just trying different things to see what kind of creative outlet that I could find,” she says. “And I was like ‘let me try men’s hair and see how that works’. I jumped into a barbershop and it was probably one of the most uncomfortable, intimidating moves working by myself as a female in a shop of all guys with way more experience than I had.”
At the time, Sofie was a minority within a minority: a female working in a male-dominated industry that was remained in the shadow of cosmetology. The young barber, however, found the excitement she craved and was driven to preserve and use the odds against. As a woman, she felt she had to come twice as hard to gain recognition and build a reputation for herself. In 2017, her hard work came to fruition when she claimed AIA’s Barber Of The Year, Behindthechair.com’s Men’s Shot of the Year and Barbercon’s Female Barber Of The Year.
Although such awards have been necessary to draw attention to the vast wealth of barbering talent you do wonder if they will continue now female barbers are no longer a novelty. Does the term ‘female barber’ and awards based on gender give credence to the idea that gender affects ability? Either way, Sofie now sees female barbers being taken more seriously and was especially proud to edge out her male counterparts at the American Influencer Awards.
“Women aren’t afraid to come into this world and hold their own,” Sofie says proudly. “It’s starting to change where people aren’t just saying, “oh, you’re good for a girl.’ No, you’re good, period. That’s what it should be; it shouldn’t be segregated. But it’s those little things that have pushed me to where I am now. You’ve got to use those moment to drive you even further.”
Sofie has used her personal journey to inspire others via her Stay Gold brand. The moniker is emblazoned across her knuckles and is further testament, should it be needed, to her dedication to the industry. Scroll through her Instagram page (@staygold31) and you will see tangible progression from her cuts to photography and videography. Sofie explains that it is important that her 222k followers find her relatable.
“It’s very real; I don’t sugar coat anything. Anything that has happened I express over the web to remind people that we all started in the same place and have the same struggles. I felt like I was the voice for a lot of people. If they felt like they couldn’t do something they could come to my page and find inspiration. People want to feel like it’s real and attainable rather than thinking ‘oh, I could never do that’.”
Her dedicated following, flawless work and infectious charisma make Sofie a marketer’s dream. International brands such as Mizutani, Takara Belmont and BaByliss have recruited the LA-based barber but authenticity remains at the heart of her work. She does not promote products she does not like. Although now a serious contender in the clipper market, Sofie is the first to admit that joining the brand was a risk, mainly because nobody she knew had ventured outside the brands that previously monopolized the market.
The risk, she says, was “one of the best decisions she ever made”. Sofie is now part of a roster of barbers that demonstrate the extensive BaByliss range of clippers. Spurred on by her experiences in her formative years, she says young barbers need to be educated about the tools they are using.
“I know what it was like when I started to just be given a pair of clippers, not knowing the specs or what was out there. I break down tools and knowledge because I think it’s important to know why we’re using it so we can do it better. We just share what works for us and usually people can connect to that because we’re not salesman. We want stuff that works for us and we’re not going to share it,” she says honestly.
Stay Gold’s effusive approach to education is rooted not only in her personal struggles but also a desire to gain greater recognition for the industry itself. As we all know, barbering was previously regarded as a low-paid, menial job that gained little respect from the wider creative community. Not any more. Sofie says that a shift in men’s attitudes towards male grooming has facilitated industry growth and put it more on par with cosmetology.
“A little bit ago guys weren’t into their hair as much and I feel like that stigma has gone. If they want to get that extra pampering like facials done it’s more acceptable. It’s not like the old days where guys would only cut their hair when they feel like it. They want to look good. They want to feel better and it’s changing men’s grooming so it matches up with the women’s side now. Before you could say there was more money in women’s hair, but now men are getting their haircut three or four times before a woman comes back for a haircut.”
Naturally, as the industry becomes more lucrative it becomes more competitive. Not only is the money now closer to cosmetology but also the respect and interest within the industry itself. Barbering has birthed a subculture and is no longer seen as a career path for the less academically inclined. Sofie says barbers can now hold their heads high when asked what they do for a living.
“Barbering, at the beginning, was looked at as if you worked in McDonalds. ‘Oh, you’re just a barber,’ they would say. I used to remember feeling that way. I felt embarrassed. Now I can say I’m a barber and people think that’s pretty cool. There are so many levels now. People are understanding the art; there’s a lot to encompass.”
