The NHBF has released a statement welcoming the support for the hair & beauty sector in Chancellor Rishi Sunak’s Budget as a success for its lobbying efforts over the past year.

Personal Care is one of the only sectors due to re-open in Step 2 (currently expected from 12^th April) where businesses will be eligible to receive a one-off cash grant of up to £18,000. Details on how to apply will be announced in the next week.

Salon owners will also be supported by:

• Furlough (Coronavirus Job Support Scheme) being extended to September 2021 across the UK. 
• A new UK-wide Recovery Loan Scheme to make available loans between £25,001 and £10 million to help businesses of all sizes through the next stage of recovery.
• Small and medium-sized employers in the UK will continue to be able to reclaim up to two weeks of eligible Statutory Sick Pay (SSP) costs per employee from the Government.
• In England, business rates relief of 100% until the end of June and then a discount of two-thirds until the end of the year.
• Corporation Tax will remain at 19% until 2023, staying at this level for those with profits of £50,000 or less. It will then be tapered, with only those generating £250,000 or more in profit being charged 25%.

For self-employed hair & beauty professionals:

• The UK-wide Self Employment Income Support scheme is being extended to September 2021, and everyone who filed a tax return in 2019-20 is now able to claim for the first time. 
• Those whose turnover has fallen by over 30% can claim 80% back and those who have lost less than 30% of turnover can claim 30%.

Local authorities in England will also be given an additional £425m to support businesses who have fallen through the gaps in support and may not be eligible for restart grants.

Richard Lambert, Chief Executive, National Hair & Beauty Federation says, 

“We welcome this budget. We’ve worked hard to inform and educate the government about our sector, particularly through our recent report, An Industry at The Sharp End.  Their improved understanding is reflected in the whole package – above all, in securing the higher grants for Personal Care.

“We were worried that the most vulnerable in our sector would find it hard to survive to re-open, but both the Restart Grant and further funding for the self-employed have thrown a lifeline to struggling businesses and professionals.

“We will continue to press the case for a short-term reduction in VAT to help the hardest-hit hair & beauty businesses to recover.”

BABTAC, British Beauty Council, NHBF and UK Spa Association have been working as part of a COVID Coalition to make a case to Government for the need for targeted support for our sector. This has included formulating a robust and fully costed proposal for an immediate recovery fund for the personal care sector and a cut in VAT to five per cent once reopened in order to counter the effects of working at reduced capacity due to social distancing requirements. The Coalition continues to work together for the good of the sector to campaign for improvements in recognition and support for our sector now and going forward.

Full details of the budget can be found on the Government website.

AT LAST, THERE IS A GLIMMER OF LIGHT ON THE HORIZON. SHAKING AWAY THOSE WINTER BLUES, WE ARE LOOKING INTO THIS SPRING WITH OPTIMISM AND ENTHUSIASM AND ARE CONTINUALLY INSPIRED BY THE TALENT AND PERSEVERANCE WITHIN THE INDUSTRY. 

Allan Stone

We would also like to mark the passing of our dear friend, and industry legend, Allan Stone of Stoney’s Barbershop in South Shields. A grand master barber, an educator, and one of the soundest lads in the industry. You will be greatly missed Stoney. 

This issue features a touching tribute to Allan Stone by Vikki Harrison-Smith, remembering Stoney, his victories, and all the joy he brought to the industry. 

Events

We are delighted to showcase Wahl Barber of the Year: Kilian Maddison, this issue. We caught up with Kilian about what winning the title meant to him, how he has been coping with lockdown this year, and what is next on the bucket list. 

We are also looking forward to some of this year’s events such as BarbersRide 2021, which will take place this in August, raising funds for Make-A-Wish foundation. These crazy barbers will be hopping on their motorbikes for a road trip of a lifetime: from Liverpool to Fort William, and back down to Leeds, visiting incredible barbershops along the way. 

We are also looking forward to this year’s Barber Connect. We spoke to Matt Brice from Barber Blades, and organiser of Barber Connect – who has had a year to think about the future for the UK’s largest barber event, after last year’s event was cancelled due to the current pandemic. We speak to him about the chances of the show going ahead this year.

Interiors

We spoke to owners of what we think are some of the UK’s most aesthetically impressive barbershops, such as Alternative Barbering Co, Kitch Hair, Tallboys, and Avanzato Grooming. In this segment, we talk inspiration, design, ergonomics, practicality, and even, ‘instagramability.’ Learn how to create a space that not only draws clients in but makes them want to stay forever—or at least come back, time and time again. 

Speaking of design and ergonomics, we also celebrate Takara Belmont’s centenary in this issue, and their one hundred years of comfort, style and evolution. 

Apprenticeships

We were lucky enough to catch up with Jody Taylor, highly acclaimed session stylist and BaByliss ambassador, to hear about how he found his way into the industry. With Jody, we talked about apprenticeships and how he went from making ups of tea at Toni & Guy, to working with some of the world’s best hairdressers, fashion designers and magazines. Jody also offers advice for those just looking to get started in the industry.  

We also chat with Robert Rix and Paddy Hunter, to hear their two-cents about apprenticeships, building skills of the trade, and their personal experience with apprenticeships. 

Enjoy the read, as always, we’ve enjoyed pulling the issue together and we hope you enjoy it too. 

You can purchase a hard copy here.

Boris Johnson’s Road Map to announced yesterday suggests salons and barbershops may be able to return after April 12^th, 2021.

In Step 2, which is projected to start on 12^th of April, hairdressers and other personal care will be allowed to reopen, as well as non-essential retail, and outdoor dining and pubs.

The second step will also allow weddings to increase in size to up to 15 people.

The government suggests that as of May 17, indoor searing can resume in pubs and restaurants, indoor entertainment such as cinemas and theatres can resume, and weddings will be able to include up to 30 people.

Johnson’s 4^th step suggests a return to complete normality as of June 21.

For Scotland, Nicola Sturgeon has just announced that salons and barbershops to be allowed to reopen on April 26th.

A specific date for Wales to reopen salons and barbershops is yet to be announced.

This means, however, salons and barbershops in England and Scotland may be able to hesitantly begin their plan to reopen and get their schedules in order, so the public has time to get their lockdown hair sorted before pubs reopen.

The findings of a recent report by The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) shows that salon and barbershop revenue fell by 45% in 2020, compared to 2019.

The report, titled, Hair, beauty and the pandemic: An industry at the sharp end. The impact of coronavirus on business vulnerability and the potential for mitigating measures, found that the hair and barbering industry are some of the most affected sectors since the pandemic restrictions hit.

Commissioned from independent analysts Pragmatix Advisory by the NHBF, the report details the current situation for the industry, the strength of the sector prior to the pandemic and the urgent measures required to ensure that the majority of the industry survives, which long term, will cost the Government very little.

The highlight findings of the report were that salon capacity is down to 70% of what it was pre-pandemic, losing an average of two hours of appointment time per stylist per day. With reduced customer demand.

Full time employment figures have dropped by 21% on 2019, with the average cash loss to business for 2020 being £17,000, with those over the tax threshold taking an even bigger hit.

With no support from Government, the prediction is that many businesses in the sector are acutely vulnerable to failure in the next 12 months, as 2021 is predicted to be as tough as last year.

A worrying figure was revealed where 60% of businesses entered 2021 with no cash reserves, and one in 10 businesses did not return any income or dividend to their owners or managers in 2020. At this rate, without further support, most expect to survive two to three months (from January), if lockdown continues.

The report revealed that the crisis has had a disproportionate impact on women and those in deprived communities – hair and beauty business owners are 82% female with an 88% female workforce.

There is a higher proportion of Personal Care businesses than any other sector in the most deprived areas of the UK. The closure of these businesses poses greatest risk to those in the local community who are most likely to be employed in these salons and barbershops.

How the Government can help

By reducing VAT to 5% would add £16,000 to the average VAT registered business, closing the cash gap by one-third. This would reduce to 6% the proportion of businesses not returning anything to their owners or managers.

If 18% of the businesses which would have otherwise failed survive as a result of reducing VAT to 5%, then the policy pays for itself through the taxes they will pay.

Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive says: “Whilst the future could be bleak for the personal care sector, intervention now and immediately following re-opening will have a life-changing positive effect. There’s nothing coming in, but the overheads still have to be paid. When we are closed, we are closed.  We can’t diversify into takeaways and online sales. 

“The Personal Care sector is calling for a specific grant to support businesses through the immediate cashflow crisis, in line with similar funds that have been afforded to many other sectors, including the arts, hospitality and leisure, and the aeronautical industry, among others.”

He continues: “We also need support after re-opening to keep cash in these businesses so they can recover. The bigger businesses have been hit the hardest and are now the most vulnerable to failure. A targeted VAT cut to 5% would allow them to re-build, invest in staff and apprentices, and once again be the heart of their high streets and communities.  We’ve shown this move will pay for itself, so it’s a cost-effective solution for the Government.

“Right now, it feels like we are last in line for support, flippantly disregarded within Parliament and overlooked by Government, despite the billions of pounds we contribute to the economy each year.”

The NHBF, working together with the British Beauty Council (BBC), British Association of Beauty Therapists and Cosmetologists (BABTAC) and UK Spa Association, has been lobbying the Department for Business (BEIS), the Treasury and the Cabinet Office for an urgent Personal Care crisis fund and a reduction in VAT.

After the rise of the beard during lockdown in 2020, with many growing their facial hair for the first time, lockdown 3.0 sees a new trend; the bushy beard.

Popular in the 70s, the laid-back bushy beard is a classical style that can look dramatic if cared for. Already a favourite with George Clooney, Zac Efron and Michael Sheen, the bushy beard is easy to grow and covers a multitude of sins. However, they need to be looked after and trimmed so they don’t get totally out of control.

Session stylist and owner of Joe and Co, London, Joe Mills, says the bushy beard is the perfect anecdote to lockdown 3.0. “During the first lockdown, many men grew a beard for the first time, investing in beard trimmers and oils. I think this reflected how we all behaved – we embraced new skills, new fashions and new ways of working. People were enjoying embracing their natural texture, growing out their hair lengths or trying to cut their own fringes. However, for this lockdown, the feeling is more of frustration, boredom or being unfocused and so the bushy beard sums up their feelings.

“George Clooney, Hugh Jackman and Michael Sheen have all stepped out with bushy beards lately. The thicker the beard, the bigger it looks. This time round, rather than trimmed to round the face, it’s trimmed to make sure it doesn’t get out of control. And beard oils and serums ensure it doesn’t dry out or become too frizzy.”

Joe Mills top tips for lockdown 3.0 beards

1 Growing a big beard takes time – so you need to be patient.

2 Have a beard oil on hand – it can prevent breakage, and makes it look and feel healthier.

3 Daily grooming is essential so invest in a quality beard comb or beard brush. You also need to look at cleansing as well. Invest in a decent beard wash and conditioner as it will make all the difference.

4 Keep the moustache trimmed and shaped; big and bushy think Magnum PI, or short and neat AKA Freddie Mercury.

5 Trim it regularly with hair scissors to prevent it getting out of control and invest in a trimmer and take your time when trimming.

The NHBF, have released the following statement updating members on the latest ruling by the Supreme Court on insurance claims.

“On 15 January 2021, The Supreme Court ruled that policy holders with certain types of insurance policy can make a business interruption claim due to the pandemic. It has told insurers to pay out in these cases as soon as possible.

However, we were very disappointed to hear that Salonsure policy holders were told this decision did not apply to them, and they would not receive any payments under the ruling.  

We asked our lawyers to check this, but unfortunately, they have confirmed that this is correct. The wording of the policies means they do not cover business interruption or compulsory closure due to the COVID-19 pandemic. 

The NHBF is reflecting on what we can do next and will get back to you shortly with a further update.”

Find out more details about the Supreme Court ruling on the Financial Conduct Authority’s website.

Financial Ombudsman If you are unsatisfied with how an insurer responds to a complaint, you can contact the Financial Ombudsman. 

On Monday, Phorest UK successfully held their live stream event, Uplift! After some technical issues on their first attempt on January 25^th, The Uplift! event came back bigger and stronger for its rescheduled date of Monday February 8^th. Along with motivational and uplifting presentations from guest speakers such as Chancellor of the British Fellowship of Hair and mindfulness leader, Ashley Hodges, and Royal Marine Jason Fox with an inspiring speech about resilience, Phorest professionals shared many inspiring stories as well as tips and tricks to persevere through the pandemic.

The day started with an introduction by Ronan Perceval, CEO of Phorest, introducing the speakers, presentations, and prizes. The prizes that were offered this year included an Apple Watch, an iPad, and a one-year subscription to Headspace App for mindfulness.

Chief Technology Officer at Phorest John Doran, and Head of Product, Evelyn Balfe, then presented on How 2020 Changed Our World. John and Evelyn shared stories from several salon owners and hairdressers throughout UK and Ireland, and how they coped and adapted through Covid with the help of some of the features Phorest Booking and Management Apps have to offer. They also included videos from Phorest users from all over the world, talking about their concerns throughout Covid, and some of the ways Phorest had been able to help.

“Phorest was the first of our suppliers who contacted us and told us, that we didn’t have to stress about the invoicing. They would spread our payments, and take the pressure off us. Phorest were definitely leading the way.” – Gerri Dangerfield Keane, UK.

The next presentation was offered by Head of Product Marketing and Retention Rob Hewitt, and Aisling Scolard, Product Manager. Rob and Aisling’s presentation focusing on marketing, what that means for salons in 2021, and some helpful tips and advice on how to make marketing work for you this year. According to Rob, “Marketing starts with clear, strategic goals, if you want proper results.” In this session, Rob and Aisling discussed all the challenges of the last year, the impact on consumer habits, and what are some ways we can adapt to consumer demands. One change that is certain is the shift to digital. Rob and Aisling offered several solutions to make sure that salons are able to effectively reach their clients online, through Phorest features like: Email Marketing Editor, SMS Marketing Editor, and Client Reconnect.

Next, the Feature Reveal was presented by Richard Cullen, Senior Product Designer, and Verna Wall product researcher, with the topic: Resilience, Motivation, and the Team Effort. Through the data system that Phorest has access to, they were able to compile a list of trends and patterns that successful salons all have in common. There are many misconceptions about what drives success, such as being located on the high street, being expensive, and having a massive team. But Phorest analytics found that these are not always indicative of success. Instead, what they found every successful salon to have was an educated and focused team. The rest of their presentation shared tips on how to motivate staff, how to help them be self-reliant, and to monitor personal and shop goals through the My Performance tool in the Phorest Go app. This tools monitors staff performance, and increases awareness, and helps to avoid awkward one-to-one meetings. This is a free tool and will be available from next week on.

The next presentation was given by guest speaker Ashleigh Hodges, who began her presentation with a group meditation to promote mindfulness. Ashleigh Hodges offered some advice on wellbeing, and how to juggle busy lives. Ashleigh’s presentation encouraged listeners to allow themselves and their staff time to look inward, take care of themselves, and recharge, before they to spring into action to help everyone else, as they are used to doing. During Covid, Ashleigh explained, “we have all had time to think about what is important to us, and clients have had time to realise how important we are to them.” Ashleigh’s advice to listeners is: learn to say no, set boundaries, and treat your wellbeing as just as important as your clients.

The next session was presented by Niamh Greaney, Head of Adoption & Client Education, who educated attendees on how to evaluate and improve your own online health, to ensure businesses are reaching their clients to the best of their abilities. Phorest have created an online calculator to assess your online health, in terms of online marketing, social media, online reputation, and your salon website. This tool is available on Phorest’s platform and online. Niamh encourages owners to check their score, create a strategy, and revisit the calculator, until they are happy with their online health.

Finally, the last presenter of the day, Jason Fox spoke to the audience about resilience and mental health, and his experience in Afghanistan as a Special Forces Officer. Fox shared an inspiring story of how he dealt with a hostage rescue mission in Afghanistan. Fox shared with the attendees his personal ethos of:  courage, determination, unselfishness, and cheerfulness in the face of adversity, and it is these four qualities that have helped him get through traumatic experiences, and will help others face day-to-day struggles throughout their lives, such as getting through this pandemic.

Overall, the day with at Phorest’s Uplift shared inspiring stories of perseverance, adaptability, and determination from salon owners, public speakers, as well as Phorest professionals. Phorest also shared many tips and tools that their software platforms offer to help salons throughout the pandemic, and into the tech-based future.

To learn more, go to https://bit.ly/2MQ8ts5

We at BarberEVO, along with the rest of the barbering world, are shocked and devastated by the loss of legendary barber and friend, Allan Stone.

46 year old Allan Stone was the owner of Stoney’s Barber Shop in Laygate, South Sheilds. Allan was a named a Grandmaster Barber by the British Master Barbers (BMB) Alliance, he was a Master Barber, and was also recognised by the British Barbers’ Association. Allan Stone was a a big supporter of the barbering industry ­– always pushing for higher standards and education, and he was a regular at most barbering shows, always offering advice and kind words.

Stone began his career in the industry as a young man, working as a Saturday worker at Saks Hairdressers in Newcastle while he was still at school. Allan Stone, was dedicated to sharing his knowledge and skills, and worked as part-time lecturer at South Tyneside College, while running two locations of his barbershop in South Shields.

We, at BarberEVO, are absolutely devastated to learn the news of the passing of our friend Allan Stone.

Full of energy and a real zest for life, Allan truly was one of the most genuine, larger than life guys you could ever wish to meet.

His presence MADE barbering trade shows worth attending alone, Allan put a smile on everyone’s face, almost effortlessly and we will cherish those memories forever.

Only last week Allan reached out to check in on Andrew and David, full of that Geordie banter and light-hearted exchanges that epitomised why Allan was liked by so many.

Our thoughts are with his family, his friends, and the very many industry peers throughout the UK and beyond who will be truly saddened to hear of his passing.

If you are able to do so, please consider making a donation to this fund set up to help support Allan Stone’s family with funeral costs.

The outpouring of emotions in the aftermath of Allan’s passing has been truly sad, but equally heart-warming to read all of the kind words every single person has had to say about the one and only Stoney.

Rest easy Stoney.

https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/allan-stone?utm_term=AxGXWgeAv&fbclid=IwAR0HwgUWVLTjoSY_X9wtDbKyzTwhojtxKj9HwwbNyWXLVBudpFQNY3Q1fN8

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Legendary Sea Cliff, NY barbershop Bart’s has continued to operate, despite plans to close last October.

Owner Joe Mazzeo had announced back in October his plans to close the establishment, with the 78 year old having worked in the shop that his father, Bartolomeo had opened, since the early 1960’s.

The Coronavirus pandemic, and subsequent lockdown last year actually forced Joe towards ‘a taste’ of retirement ahead of schedule. However he has since reopened, but is still passionate about selling the business to another barber who can take the business on.

Good luck to Joe. Joe is the epitome of what barbers mean to the communities they serve. We salute you Joe!

WE’VE ALL BEEN WISHING AWAY 2020, AND WE CAN ONLY HOPE THAT 2021 BRINGS ALL THE THINGS WE MISSED OUT ON LAST YEAR. WE NEED STABILITY, THE RETURN OF CLIENTS TO THE BARBER’S CHAIR, AND UNITY WITHIN THE INDUSTRY.

We are delighted to welcome an esteemed barber to our list of columnists, Robert Rix of The Company of Master Barbers in Southport. Robert comes to us with a wealth of experience, and he will forever stick in my mind from an event I attended when BarberEVO was in its infancy. Surrounded by the young, the flashy and the talented, all eyes were drawn to Robert and his traditional values, his outstanding techniques, and his insight into the business. We are honoured to welcome him to the BarberEVO family. 

In this issue we have pulled together a really strong array of opinions on hair trends for 2021. It seems that longer hair is on the way back and the lockdown has forced prolonged hair growth that is here to stay. 

We were all saddened to hear of the death of our friend Sam Wall, and we felt it only right to update our readers on the outstanding response that Sam’s friends pulled out the bag in honour of a much-loved guy. Team Sam Wall have been pounding the streets racking up the miles and raising more than £15,000 for charity. We salute you! 

We would also like to mark the passing of the legend, Tony Roberts of Just Gents, in Milton Keynes, a grand master barber, and a wonderful character, we send our thoughts to his family and friends. 

Back to the content in this issue and we take a look at the benefits of investing in studio time when it comes to putting together a collection. Kevin Luchmun tells us why opening his own studio has been a game changer. We are also able to bring you exclusive behind the scenes coverage of a fantastic day of shooting by Liam Oakes.

Finally, we catch up with Luka Chitty about his ongoing Together Create project which encourages you to think local when sourcing a venue for your next shoot. 

Enjoy the read, as always, we’ve enjoyed pulling the issue together and we hope you enjoy it too. 

You can purchase a hard copy here.