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Industry News

EVOLive : Lee Resnick

We were delighted to be joined on EVOLive on Friday 15th May by the founder and owner of the Barbershop Connect platform and Barbercon, Lee Resnick.

We discussed the important matter of ego V education in the barber industry today.

If you missed it, don’t worry… watch it below!

NHBF comment on Welsh Government Exit Plan

Following the publication of the Welsh Government’s roadmap out of lockdown, the NHBF has welcomed their clarity for hairdressers within their traffic light guidance system.

There are four possible phases to the Welsh system: Lockdown (Black), Red, Amber and Green. Although no dates have currently been allocated to when each phase will play out, the government has listed ‘hairdressing’ as a ‘personal service under appointment’ in the Amber Phase of their roadmap. This is alongside non-essential retail and accommodation businesses (without shared facilities).

The NHBF has already written to the government about its decision to include ‘personal care’ services in Phase 3 alongside hospitality in England.  Hairdressing, barbering and beauty are usually included in with retail, for example for the purposes of business rates.  Many salons benefit from the retail business rates relief.  We have written to the Scottish government in similar terms.

Much like the UK Government’s Covid-19 recovery strategy that was released earlier this week, the Welsh roadmap is subject to continued progress in containing the spread of the virus, and each phase has its own social distancing measures. The Welsh Government has also said that things will not move ‘wholesale’ from one phase to the next, and that changes will be made slowly and with great care.

The NHBF represents 234 salons in Wales, and has already volunteered to support the Welsh Government by calling on their Members who want to take part in any pilot schemes.

Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHBF says, “The safety of our industry has always been our top concern. We welcome the Welsh Government’s clarity that hair and beauty sits alongside retail and accommodation businesses. We will continue our conversations with the UK Government and the Scottish government about where hair and beauty should sit within the plans for lifting lockdown in England and Scotland. We have recently released robust guidelines to our Members and government contacts to show that salons and barbershops can operate safely whenever it’s time to re-open.”

RE-LEASE your potential with Takara Belmont

Takara Belmont’s National Sales Manager Katie Wrighton explains how leasing can transform your barbershop, expand service opportunities and boost business income.

Takara Belmont is famed for timeless, iconic design, unrivalled performance and durability. But did you know that our range can be lease purchased, and that we offer a free Salon Design Service for barbershops looking to create an inspirational interior and deliver the ultimate service experience?

With a national distributor network, barbershops can get the best chairs and equipment whilst managing expenditure by leasing. Leasing ensures that you can maximise your service and income potential whilst managing cashflow, as well as benefiting from tax efficiencies. You need to invest in things other than equipment, so buying outright or taking out loans can divert money away from things like training and recruitment. Leasing not only frees up cash resources for other priorities, it enables you to benefit from premium furniture and equipment in a manageable, low interest and tax efficient way with fixed monthly payments.

Eighty 8 – Love to Create

Leasing also makes sense because buying inferior equipment can cost more in the longterm. The cost of repairs or replacement equipment not only means barbershops typically spend more over time, business can suffer from lost revenues due to service disruption, downtime and equipment failure. 

In addition to equipment, Takara Belmont has also designed some of the world’s most inspirational interiors. Our free* concept-to-completion design service ensures your dream of the ultimate barbershop is realised! 

Now is the perfect time to look at your equipment options so visit takarahairdressing.co.uk/leasing or email hairdressing@takara.co.uk for your nearest distributor

* Salon Design Service is free subject to equipment purchases and T&Cs. See website for details. Leasing is available through our distributors and not directly with Takara Belmont.

EVO Rewind: Julius Caesar and Sofie Pok interviews

Julius Caesar

Behind the veneered smiles of Los Angeles is a city that has a habit of chewing people up and spitting them straight back out again, but some thrive in the City Of Angels and build an empire. Court is now in session with Julius Caesar. ALL HAIL.

For the last five years, LA has provided the perfect milieu for Julius to grow his product. Combining San Francisco culture with LA swagger, he has incorporated his love of art, music and fashion into his craft. Julius is not a barber; he’s a brand, and is very much the epitome of the opportunities that the modern barbering industry can afford. 

‘Barber’ was a title first bestowed on Julius by this mother. Although the San-Francisco native did not come from nothing, he admits he knows what it is like to have very little, and his hard-working mother was always looking for ways to save money. Haircuts were $12 each so she bought a $20 pair of hair clippers and let her artistic son cut the family. Julius, however, quickly developed a passion for cutting hair and became his high school’s de facto barber. Once graduated, he was faced with a decision that lead him to passing up on Art School and University.

Julius was still cutting hair at his home but was also working in retail. He was there to launch to launch the first iPhone and believes working in retail helped him build not only strong customer services skills but also understand the fundamentals of business. When the US recession hit, Julius decided it was time to transform passion into a profession and enrolled in Bayview Barber College. Going back to school in one of San Fran’s most impoverished neighbourhoods was quite the contrast to earning good money in a shirt and tie forty hours a week. 

“When it was apparent that I actually knew how to cut I remember the locals would say I had a ‘temporary hood pass’ since I was cutting up everyone on the block! It’s been a crazy journey ever since, but the first moments cutting in my childhood kitchen to being a barber college student in the hood were all part of me falling in love this lifestyle we all know as barbering today. The game is totally different now and I’m glad to see it grow but those humble times when it wasn’t ‘cool’ yet… those are the times I’ll always cherish. What started off as a way to help my family became a hobby, then a career and now a life,” he reflects.

Having soaked up the culture of San Francisco and helped to grow the Fresh Cut brand in Daly City, Julius decided it was time to start the next chapter of his story: open his own barbershop take on a new city. The Big Apple was mooted as his next location but transferring his licences from California to New York made it logistically difficult. Instead, he was drawn towards the beautiful people of Los Angeles.

Like many before him, Julius landed in LA alone with little more than a few connections. He put out an Instagram – where he had already start to make a name for himself – post looking for the best barbershops in the heart of the city. The young barber was ready to hit the ground running. Capsule Barbershop on Hollywood’s iconic Melrose Avenue gave him a taste of celebrity life before he went on to form Grey Matter with shop owner Vince Garcia and Joey Nieves. The polished façade of LA, however, masks the grind, hustle and heartbreak of The City Of Angels.

“Los Angeles has been a roller coaster of ride,” he admits. “I’ve been blessed to have LA take me with open arms. I’ve just surpassed my five year mark in this beautiful place and I’ve seen a lot of people come and go. I’ve seen the overnight success and seen it turn back round and send people flying out the city worse than they came. LA is not for the weak hearted. You can’t be sensitive here, let alone naïve. The land of amazing opportunities is like a jungle. There’s beasts out there fighting for a spot in the kingdom; there’s lions and hyenas. LA has taught me that in the most chaotic of times, if you stick to what you believe in and what you stand for longevity will be awarded to you.”

The heavily-inked barbers stock has continued to rise as he builds his brand incorporating all of his life experiences and passions. Authenticity remains at the heart of Julius Caesar and he implores all barbers to take a similar approach. He feels too many brands and individuals adhere to what others expect rather than what they really are.

“The best advice I can give to some looking to build a brand is find your own story, and when I say that I don’t mean make one up. Too many brands these days make up a story but there’s no core to brands like that. Seek inspiration through life experiences, from the high and lows. Filter out the excess features and build upon the foundation of what truly represents what the brand stands for. It’s important to have a true message and to stick behind it even if nobody else believes in it. Most brands that are successful organically grew from the roots up and those are the brands that hold longevity.” 

ALL HAIL: The Pillars Club is the nucleus of the Julius Caesar brand and the culmination of his career and life thus far. More akin to an art gallery, the monochromatic Downtown LA loft is curated to create an elevated male grooming experience. The carefully chosen soundscape pleases the ears while the candles and incense excite the nostrils as you take a seat in the custom Takara Belmont Chair. It is, quite simply, like little else in the industry. Julius explains that the service he provides his client is as bespoke as the setting. 

“It’s a private appointment-only curated space built not out of convenience but out of necessity. I humbly don’t see myself catering to a clientele that want just a haircut but specifically come see me to help mould their image. My client base don’t just come to because I’m available; they come to me because I build a strong professional rapport of manufacturing a custom tailored haircut/style made just for them. If you have ever seen the movie American Gangster, what I’m trying to give them is that Blue Magic. Once you get a tick ALL HAIL: The Pillars Club you only find it where it is made available.”

Julius is often asked about the expansion of his empire and his answer, much like him, evolves over time. He has built an impressive foundation for himself and now wants to conquer the world in both hair and other disciplines. He said he wouldn’t open another establishment until he is settled but when the time comes his next move is undoubtedly going to be game changing, and barbering is not the only game he is looking to change

“I want to continue to be involved in other lifestyle aspects and immerse myself more in fashion and brand consultation and development. I’d love to also take my experience as a men’s grooming educator and work towards transitioning into motivational speaking on platforms outside barbering. The future can be tomorrow or it can be five years from now. I’m just thankful for every day I can open up my eyes and take a breath of air again. We literally don’t know what day will be our last, so I plan and manifest for better tomorrows but at the same time live for the now. If I was to go at any moment, my goal is whatever legacy I do leave behind it was made with my whole heart.”

ALL HAIL.

Sofie Pok 

For the last eight years, Sofie Pok has worked diligently to perfect her craft under her international ‘Stay Gold’ brand. She has battled rigorously to overcome the industry’s inequalities and now stakes her claim as one of its leading figures.

2017 was a breakthrough year for the LA-based barber however the hair industry almost lost one of its leading figures before she had the chance to make her mark. Sofie initially studied cosmetology but admits she struggled to muster any real excitement for the craft. Before quitting in search of another creative outlet she took the bold step of transition to barbering. 

“I thought before I give it all up, because I was just trying different things to see what kind of creative outlet that I could find,” she says. “And I was like ‘let me try men’s hair and see how that works’. I jumped into a barbershop and it was probably one of the most uncomfortable, intimidating moves working by myself as a female in a shop of all guys with way more experience than I had.”

At the time, Sofie was a minority within a minority: a female working in a male-dominated industry that was remained in the shadow of cosmetology. The young barber, however, found the excitement she craved and was driven to preserve and use the odds against. As a woman, she felt she had to come twice as hard to gain recognition and build a reputation for herself. In 2017, her hard work came to fruition when she claimed AIA’s Barber Of The Year, Behindthechair.com’s Men’s Shot of the Year and Barbercon’s Female Barber Of The Year.

Although such awards have been necessary to draw attention to the vast wealth of barbering talent you do wonder if they will continue now female barbers are no longer a novelty. Does the term ‘female barber’ and awards based on gender give credence to the idea that gender affects ability? Either way, Sofie now sees female barbers being taken more seriously and was especially proud to edge out her male counterparts at the American Influencer Awards. 

“Women aren’t afraid to come into this world and hold their own,” Sofie says proudly. “It’s starting to change where people aren’t just saying, “oh, you’re good for a girl.’ No, you’re good, period. That’s what it should be; it shouldn’t be segregated. But it’s those little things that have pushed me to where I am now. You’ve got to use those moment to drive you even further.”

Sofie has used her personal journey to inspire others via her Stay Gold brand. The moniker is emblazoned across her knuckles and is further testament, should it be needed, to her dedication to the industry. Scroll through her Instagram page (@staygold31) and you will see tangible progression from her cuts to photography and videography. Sofie explains that it is important that her 222k followers find her relatable.

“It’s very real; I don’t sugar coat anything. Anything that has happened I express over the web to remind people that we all started in the same place and have the same struggles. I felt like I was the voice for a lot of people. If they felt like they couldn’t do something they could come to my page and find inspiration. People want to feel like it’s real and attainable rather than thinking ‘oh, I could never do that’.”

Her dedicated following, flawless work and infectious charisma make Sofie a marketer’s dream. International brands such as Mizutani, Takara Belmont and BaByliss have recruited the LA-based barber but authenticity remains at the heart of her work. She does not promote products she does not like. Although now a serious contender in the clipper market, Sofie is the first to admit that joining the brand was a risk, mainly because nobody she knew had ventured outside the brands that previously monopolized the market.

The risk, she says, was “one of the best decisions she ever made”. Sofie is now part of a roster of barbers that demonstrate the extensive BaByliss range of clippers. Spurred on by her experiences in her formative years, she says young barbers need to be educated about the tools they are using. 

“I know what it was like when I started to just be given a pair of clippers, not knowing the specs or what was out there. I break down tools and knowledge because I think it’s important to know why we’re using it so we can do it better. We just share what works for us and usually people can connect to that because we’re not salesman. We want stuff that works for us and we’re not going to share it,” she says honestly.

Stay Gold’s effusive approach to education is rooted not only in her personal struggles but also a desire to gain greater recognition for the industry itself. As we all know, barbering was previously regarded as a low-paid, menial job that gained little respect from the wider creative community. Not any more. Sofie says that a shift in men’s attitudes towards male grooming has facilitated industry growth and put it more on par with cosmetology.

“A little bit ago guys weren’t into their hair as much and I feel like that stigma has gone. If they want to get that extra pampering like facials done it’s more acceptable. It’s not like the old days where guys would only cut their hair when they feel like it. They want to look good. They want to feel better and it’s changing men’s grooming so it matches up with the women’s side now. Before you could say there was more money in women’s hair, but now men are getting their haircut three or four times before a woman comes back for a haircut.”

Naturally, as the industry becomes more lucrative it becomes more competitive. Not only is the money now closer to cosmetology but also the respect and interest within the industry itself. Barbering has birthed a subculture and is no longer seen as a career path for the less academically inclined. Sofie says barbers can now hold their heads high when asked what they do for a living.

“Barbering, at the beginning, was looked at as if you worked in McDonalds. ‘Oh, you’re just a barber,’ they would say. I used to remember feeling that way. I felt embarrassed.  Now I can say I’m a barber and people think that’s pretty cool. There are so many levels now. People are understanding the art; there’s a lot to encompass.”

EVOLive : Tyrik Jackson

On the 17th episode of EVOLive we were joined by international educator, barber school and barbershop owner Tyrik Jackson.

Don’t worry if you missed it – the full video is available below!

The Hair and Barber Council responds to the Prime Minister’s lockdown announcement

Hair and Barber Council registrar Keith Conniford reassures the industry he will be looking for clarification from Government this week on whether hair and barber salons are classed as non-essential shops. 

Keith reacted to the Prime Minister’s latest lockdown announcement, which saw Boris Johnson stress that the lockdown is still in place, stating this is not the time to make any changes, but to take small steps. 

Steps announced were: 

From May – If you can’t work from home you are encouraged to go to work 

From June – Some primary schools may be allowed to reopen along with some non-essential shops 

From July – Hospitality sector may be able to open together with other public places 

All the above are conditional on the R numbers remaining low. 

Keith Conniford says: “The announcement was very disappointing and ambiguous. I was expecting more than what was announced, such as restrictions on households and families being lifted. The Prime Minster says he will be going into more detail this week so will be interesting to see what he says. 

“Concerning our industry, he stated that from 1 June non-essential shops will open – so does that include salons, barbershops and beauty salons? I will be speaking to Government and our APPG this week as to whether we are classed as non-essential businesses. For business, this was a disappointing announcement and we are left with no more information that we were last week. My biggest concern was his statement that if you can’t work from home then go to work – I believe that was aimed at manufacturing, construction and medical rather than our industry and we urge hairdressers, barbers and beauticians to wait for further clarification, which we will endeavour to get as soon as possible.” 

Find out more about The Hair & Barber Council: www.haircouncil.org.uk 

Response Statement from the NHBF

“Dominic Raab this morning has said that hospitality and ‘personal care services’ such as hair and beauty salons and barbershops in England will not be able to reopen until 4th July at the earliest. It is our view that this is the right course of action, as the safety of the people in our industry is paramount. 

Scotland and Wales have also spoken of their determination to take a cautious approach and their current restrictions remain in place. 

We hope to be able to provide more clarity later following a meeting with representatives from the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy this morning. There are still many concerns within our industry and we are working hard to get answers so that we can plan to return to work safely when the time is right. 

We will provide a further update later on today. 

Image// Goodlife Barbershop.

EVOLive : Keith Conniford and John McNally MP

We were delighted to be joined on EVOLive on Monday 11th May by CEO and Registrar of the Hair and Barber Council, Keith Conniford and by the Chair of the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Hairdressing, Barbering and Cosmetology, and former barber, John McNally MP.

We discussed the most recent UK Government update pertaining to the possible re-opening of UK Barbershops, as well as the key issue of industry regulation and more.

If you missed it, don’t worry… watch it below!

TAKARA BELMONT LAUNCHES NEW WEBSITE

As one of the world’s leading hairdressing furniture and equipment brands, Takara Belmont has unveiled a brand new website. Combining contemporary design with modern desktop and mobile functionality, the new site simultaneously captures the essence of its history and Japanese heritage, as it approaches its Centenary in 2021.  

Takara Belmont is known globally for advanced innovation, timeless design, the application of leading-edge technology and unrivalled equipment performance. Their hairdressing range has continually evolved to produce some of the worlds most iconic and enduring products giving generations of hairdressing businesses inspiration, confidence and peace of mind. With a partnership ethos and commercial perspective that steers salons to maximum business performance, Takara Belmont has become the benchmark for equipment standards and the hallmark of quality from the most celebrated names in hairdressing to the most understated.

In addition to exemplary styling chairs, backwash equipment and luxury shampoo systems, stying stations, functional accessories and transformative hair processing technologies, the company offers a FREE* Salon Design Service. It also provides leasing opportunities through its nationwide distributor network and works in partnership with salons to bring their vision of the ultimate salon to life.

“The new website is designed to simplify the user experience,” says National Sales Manager Katie Wrighton. “We’ve created specific sections for barber chairs, styling chairs and other key product and service areas, so visitors can get the information they need quickly.”

In addition to providing a showcase for the company’s products, the website also provides a resource to help visitors find their local dealer, find out about Leasing and learn about the Salon Design Service. Katie Wrighton: “We’ve added salon design case studies that walk visitors through the process, so they know how it works and what to expect. There’s also a section on our heritage which journey’s through almost a Century of expertise and timelines how Takara Belmont has grown to become a global leader in hairdressing and barbering equipment.” 

From high-end to High Street, Takara Belmont is the equipment choice of all genres of hairdressing salon. Visit their new website at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk to see how you can transform your salon business. 

EVO Rewind: Wahl 100 Years

Leo Wahl didn’t revolutionise an industry, he created one…

HAIRSTYLES COME AND GO. FROM CREW CUTS TO POMPADOURS, AFROS TO FADES TO TODAY’S CUSTOM DESIGNS, STYLES HAVE CHANGED OVER THE YEARS. REGARDLESS OF WHAT’S IN FASHION, WAHL HAS REMAINED AT THE CENTER OF TEN DECADES OF DIFFERENT CUTS. FOR THE PAST 100 YEARS, WAHL CLIPPER CORPORATION HAS PIONEERED AND REFINED THE ELECTRIC CLIPPERS THAT MAKE CUTTING THE HAIRSTYLES OF THE LAST CENTURY POSSIBLE

Back in 1919 when the world was still recovering from World War I, many inventors were taking the opportunity to put their best ideas on the market. On October 14, 1919, Leo Wahl of Sterling, Illinois applied for patents on his newly developed electromagnetic hair clipper. He had been experimenting with engineering electromagnetic motors since he was in high school, first selling a medical massager that he invented for barbershops. It was during his time that Leo recognized the need to improve barber tools. Learning from the barbers, Leo concentrated on building efficient and high-quality hair clippers. Within a year of securing the patent, Leo’s factory had manufactured and sold thousands of clippers to professionals all over the United States. 

In the early 1940s, the Wahl Clipper Corporation installed its own plastic moulding presses. This, along with other various manufacturing technologies, allowed the company to control almost every aspect of production under the roof of the Wahl plant in Sterling, Illinois, a quiet rural community 90 miles west of Chicago. Control over the production allowed Wahl to constantly improve upon his designs and perfect all of his products. It also allowed the Wahl product line to expand to include hair dryers, shear sharpeners, shears, curling brushes, combs and attachments for hair clippers. 

During World War II, Wahl Clipper Corporation was called upon to provide clippers and shears to help keep soldiers’ hair out of their eyes while on the battlefields of Europe. While over there, American GIs introduced their European allies to Wahl clippers. This word-of-mouth goodwill created enough brand interest that Leo Wahl was able to establish a distribution centre in Holland in 1949.

From the American heartland of Sterling, Illinois to the transatlantic market, Wahl clippers became recognised worldwide. With such high demand, the company began exporting products in the voltages and frequencies required for international use. 

With the war behind them, Americans in the 1950s were being influenced by another huge event. Thanks to access to television, pop culture infiltrated people’s homes and rock stars and actors became household names. Everybody wanted to emulate what they saw as being the latest popular haircut. It was no longer about efficiency; haircuts were now about being cool. Wahl quickly introduced new products to the market to help barbers across the country recreate these styles for their customers. 

In 1957, Leo Wahl passed away with over 100 patents to his name. Motivated to keep the Wahl Clipper Corporation a family business, Leo passed the company on to his three sons. Warren became president, Robert became vice president and Jack became managing engineer. This ensured that the same values instilled by Leo would continue through his sons. That same year, the Wahl Clipper Corporation moved into a new, larger location in Sterling. 

Warren, Robert and Jack followed in their father’s footsteps by continuing to innovate. In the 1960s, the company produced a number of new products, including the very unique and innovative flexible-blade electric razor. In 1965, Wahl pioneered another advancement in the industry with the vacuum clipper. A man was now able to get a haircut without any hair touching his suit. The next year saw the creation of the first universal-type rotary motor clipper. Incredibly, again in 1967, Wahl created another first for the industry – its cordless/rechargeable battery-operated hair trimmer changed the barbering world forever. 

In 1980, Jim Wahl, a third-generation Wahl, began the first official Professional-product division within the company. He worked tirelessly to educate the cosmetology and barbering community about the merits of their US-made clippers and trimmers. In 1983, he started the renowned Wahl Education and Artistic Team (W.E.A.T.), focusing on the classroom and the importance of using the right tools and techniques. 

In 2002, Wahl launched a barber-oriented line of 5-Star products. This line really began to take off and continues to be popular among barbers because of their impressive performance and uniqueness. 

Today, Wahl has a wide variety of blades, accessories, clippers and trimmers to help barbers create the styles and cutting techniques their customers want. And yet even today, the Wahl Clipper Corporation team continues Leo Wahl’s practice of listening to barbers, using their opinions and needs to help shape the next line of products.

In celebration of 100 years of business, Wahl has combined a century of engineering advances into its newest product – the 100 Year Clipper. What they consider to be their finest professional clipper to date, it is the physical embodiment of 100 years of Wahl innovation and tradition. It has the classic style of the original Wahl designs but with powerful cordless technology and a li-ion battery. 

Amazingly, Wahl Clipper Corporation started with one man’s vision, a single patent and a small manufacturing plant. Today, 100 years later, it’s grown to eight factories on four continents, 22 sales offices around the world serving over 165 countries and over 274 patents related to the barbering, salon and pet grooming industries. 

However, after 100 years in business, the core of what makes Wahl what it is has not changed. The company remains family owned and managed, its headquarters are still in Sterling, Illinois and it has continued to stay true to its values of innovation, quality and efficiency. These values have helped Wahl become a leader in this industry and will allow them to continue providing quality products for years to come.