BarberEVO Magazine

Be part of the Barber EVOlution

Jennifer Paxton

Barbershop doubles up as Covid vaccination site

Residents of Milwaukee were offered the chance to have more than just a haircut at Gee’s Clippers barbershop recently when the popular barbershop was offering Covid-19 vaccinations.

Gaulien ‘Gee’ Smith, owner of the shop had teamed up with Anthem Blue cross Shield, Hayat Pharmacy and Unite WI to turn his wellness clinic into a Covid vaccination site.

The clinic, located at the back of his barbershop at 2200 N. King Drive, operated every Saturday starting March 27 through April 17.

“I’m geeked,” Smith said of the opportunity for Gee’s MKE Wellness Clinic. “This is something that I’ve been wanting to do for some time once I knew that the vaccine was coming out. There are so many African Americans — for their own reasons — not getting the vaccine.”

Having a site in the heart of the city would encourage more people to get the vaccine and make it more accessible. Milwaukee County officials recently expanded the eligibility to get the vaccine to those as young as 16 years old in certain ZIP codes.

“Getting back to normal,” he added, “means being part of the cure. The vaccine has been proven safe,” said Smith, who has done public service announcements with Froedtert Hospital and Anthem Blue Cross Blue Shield promoting the safety and efficacy of the vaccine in Blacks.

Aberdeenshire barber to give staff day off when pubs re-open

An Aberdeen barber group is giving its entire workforce the day off when pubs reopen to help boost the local economy.

Sovereign Grooming will close its Aberdeen salon on April 26 – the day lockdown restrictions are eased – to allow its team to support local food and drink businesses.

Kyle Ross, Sovereign Grooming’s managing director, said recent closures on the high street highlighted the importance of businesses standing together this spring.

He stated: “Our city centres are a business eco-system, and when one sector suffers, it has a knock-on effect for everyone.

“That eco-system has been on a knife-edge at various points over the past year and we feel it’s more important than ever to pull together and help our city centres recover.

“We employ 18 people, so in the grand scheme of things, this is a very small gesture. However, we feel it is important to send a message of support and solidarity, and to do our bit to support Scotland’s city centres.”

The barber group is also delaying the official opening of its flagship New Waverley salon in Edinburgh by 24 hours to give staff the chance to support nearby bars and restaurants.

Mr Ross, who launched Sovereign alongside business partner Ryan Crighton, has won a number of industry awards since opening, including Best Barber UK in 2017.

Calling All Barbers: Have Your Say With A Chance Of a £50 Prize

HAVE YOUR SAY IN SAPIO RESEARCH’S SURVEY AND BE IN WITH AN CHANCE TO WIN £50.

Sapio Research are looking for barbers from all different backgrounds to share their knowledge on all things hair, from education and inspiration to where you buy your products.

The survey will take no longer than 15-20 minutes to complete, and for 50 random respondents, they have a £50 cash prize to give away.

Your experience and understanding of the hairdressing industry is invaluable, and your feedback will help to make improvements and put your needs first. Rest assured that all of your answers and the information you provide will be entirely confidential.

To start the survey click here.

Barber Seeks Sender of Anonymous Gift to say ‘Thank You’

A barber who was given a generous tip by a mystery customer has asked for the anonymous do-gooder to reveal themselves so he can say a simple, ‘thank you’.

David Cardoso, owner of new barber’s shop, Billions, in Victoria arcade, re-opened his doors on Monday, April 12, ready to get “hands on” now that the restrictions were lifted.

Billions Barber Shop originally opened on July 4 last year, but – like other businesses – had been repeatedly closed due to lockdown. 

After a haircut on their first day back open, Mr Cardoso was surprised to see an envelope on the floor.

Inside was a card wishing him the best of luck as well as £60 in cash.

The card read: “I am so impressed that you started your business during a pandemic.”

David Cardoso was “really touched” to receive such a gesture, and now hopes to say thank you to the anonymous donor.

Mr Cardoso said: “I thought this was very kind and it really did touch me.”

Fragility of Hair And Beauty Industry Revealed In Survey

The NHBF is calling for a prolonged period of stability in order for hair & beauty businesses have a fighting chance of recovery, following the results of its latest State of the Industry survey.

The sector remains divided about the future with 46% of respondents unsure if their business will survive until the end of social distancing. Under the requirements in place prior to the most recent lockdown (Nov/Dec 2020):

  • Almost 1 in 4 salons (23%) were not earning enough to cover outgoings such as rents, overheads, staff costs and stock etc.
  • 38 per cent were just about breaking even.
  • only 2 in 5 of businesses across the entire hair and beauty sector were making any kind of profit.

Throughout the pandemic, the NHBF, working with partners in the sector, was able to secure further reliefs and financial support for personal care businesses in each of the four nations. Despite this, fixed outgoings and a lack of ability to diversify and generate income during lockdown has left businesses with no cash reserves, growing debt, and at the brink of closure. In fact, Local Data Company statistics indicate that ten per cent of the industry had been lost to the crisis by December. 

Successive lockdown closures have also had a dramatic impact on employment:

  • 1 in 6 business owners (16 per cent) have made redundancies as a result of the pandemic, with only 2 in 5 able to rule out further redundancies when furlough ends.
  • 59 per cent have cut staff hours in order to save costs.
  • More than half of businesses have had to cut apprenticeships during the pandemic (55 per cent). 
  • Only 11 per cent are likely to take on new apprentices in next three months, despite recent government incentives.

Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive, says: “Financial stability will be the key to returning to profit and stability.  Hopefully most hair & beauty businesses who have been able to return to work in the last few weeks will have enjoyed record income. However, they need the chance to get their head above water.  As things stand, they’ll have to start repaying rent arrears and the debts and loans accrued over the last year just when business rates relief and furlough come to an end.

“Tackling this tsunami of financial obligations under long term social distancing requirements will scotch any chance for the industry to be profitable. It will be even less likely that businesses will have the resources, capacity or financial ability to take on or keep apprentices, putting the future skills of the sector in real jeopardy.”

The NHBF recommends that the most beneficial policy measures over the next six months would be:

  • Social distancing measures and operational restrictions within close-contact guidance should be phased out as soon as it is safe to do so if the sector is to return to profit.
  • A temporary reduction in VAT
  • Easier access to support grants should businesses struggle to recover
  • An extension to the Self-Employed Income Support Scheme (SEISS) should the economy have failed to recover after September.

Making a STMNT

As featured in the April edition of BarberEVO North America

Looking to rewrite the standards of grooming and fuelled by the knowledge and artistry from leading barbers, the STMNT brand looks to go beyond the product. We caught up with the co-creators of STMNT to find out a little more about what their brand has to offer.

The STMNT brand is a product of the collaboration between some of the industry’s most innovative and cutting-edge artists: LA based, Julius Cvesar and Sofie Pok, as well as Miguel Gutierrez aka Nomad, from Liverpool, UK. Between the three, they have more than 50 years’ experience in the barbering industry, as well as a wealth of knowledge in hair education, visual arts, fashion and editorial.

We asked the group, how did STMNT come to be?

Miguel said: “STMNT was born out of a vision between three creators who all hold the same standards yet have completely different styles to add into the mix. We originally got started after being approached and slowly realized a dream team was being created, that’s when we all got onboard and decided to fully immerse ourselves into developed the brand to what it’s become. Our whole direction was to become a grooming brand that was performance driven, bold and premium in packaging, fragrance and ingredients.”

Talking to the team, it is so clear how well the three get along and fit together creatively. Julius said: “I believe we were specifically chosen to co-create STMNT because of our multi-faceted roles as not only leaders within our industry, but with the already diverse background in visual arts, film, photography, fashion, and education. We all are still active barbering professionals with clientele in our chairs, yet we’ve truly brought a whole new perspective to being a well-rounded image consultant. I believe my connection to raw imagery inspired by metropolis cityscape and brutalism, alongside my visual delivery that takes a lot from my genuine love for art and fashion made me a standout artist to collaborate with my two fellow co-creators.”

So, what makes STMNT stand out amongst the crowd?

“The beautiful thing about STMNT is that it can work for the girl on-the-go, the guy getting ready for a formal event, the couple at the gym, or the family on vacation. STMNT promotes individuality and acceptance. Barbering has been known as a male dominated field, but we knew how important it was to build a brand that would serve the stylists, cosmetologists, and barbers all the same” says Sofie.

Miguel added that the brand is completely gender neutral, and all of their products are cocktail-able: “We are truly set far above any barber brand in my view for versatility and range of types of product.”

In terms of creative process, unlike other brands that just stick a well-known name to a product, the STMNT creators were involved in every part of the process.

Julius continued, “In creating STMNT, it was important that myself, Sofie, and Miguel as the professional co-creators not only put our combined knowledge and expertise to use in creating the line, but truly worked in unison with our brand development team’s strength to bring the line to full fruition. The storytelling and vision had to be vividly clear across the board with every department.”

The question on everyone’s minds? What statement are they aiming to make?

STMNT is bold, it is demanding, and it’s the definition of how we all choose to live our lives. We hope to inspire others to find their purpose and share their gifts with the world and to get specific! Stand up for who you are and the changes you are trying to make” said Sofie.

“We are really aiming to rewrite the standards of men’s grooming” adds Miguel. “The industry has been and will always be in a transition state from one thing to the next, but I believe what we’ve created will live on way beyond any other trends currently out there.” 

“When co-creating STMNT, one message (or statement) I really wanted to purvey is that being a barber is more than just a hair service – we are so much more. These products were developed with not only acknowledging the core essentials in product styling with the line, but also innovated new iterations of product attributes that can notably be standout to professionals and clients alike.  Bridging the gap between Barbering and Salon ecosystems, the acknowledgement of gender-neutral aesthetics, and a focus on professional grade to lifestyle driven performance were all key points in making our statement.”

To find out more, read about STMNT in our April edition of BarberEVO North America or go to https://www.stmntgrooming.us/

The American Dream: Barber Plans Move to Houston, Texas

Reece (aka @blufadez) started his career in barbering five years ago now and is determined to further his career by moving on to bigger things in the United States.

Reece grew up in the salon environment and wasn’t sure if it was the career for him, at first: “I had been in the salon my whole life! So, I went to college to study media, but in the end, I knew that barbering was my true calling, as it naturally suited me in every way.”

But ever since Reece started in the industry, he says it has been like an addiction: “It’s never felt like work to me because I’m so dedicated to becoming the best that I can, and that’s never ending. Even times when it’s been a little hard, I still enjoy it, if anything I enjoy it more. I’ve grown my client base quite large in a short space of time and I’ve only just started!”

For Reece, the best part of barbering is the feeling it gives you, and the importance behind every cut: “Giving somebody a good cut can be life changing for them, and there’s no better feeling than a client genuinely liking their cut and telling you it’s the best cut they’ve ever had! A barber can be very important in a person’s life, and it’s nice to know people are choosing you to cut their hair. I think that’s a part of the reason improving your cuts is so addictive, you almost feel like you owe it to your clients. It’s such a skilful art, with a lot of variants, so we need to make sure we’re always on our best game. Being consistently able to give perfect haircuts is what we all aim for, and that’s the best part about it. We’re a big part of communities, we’re barbers, therapists, style coaches, advisers and friends all in one.”

But now, Reece feels the need to grow beyond his home boundaries and is determined that the next step in his journey will be America.

“I’ve always wanted to live there,” he said. “But I kind of gave up after becoming a barber as I thought it wasn’t possible. But within six years, I’ve been offered a job in Houston, Texas, by someone who is one of my heroes, and who I personally think is the best barber in the industry (@smashthalegend). The reason why I want to be in America is because of my dedication to progressing, and I just want to be on the front line of my trade.”

For Reece, although he sees the barbering culture in England as progressive and influential, it still hasn’t quite caught up to where it is at in the USA: “Everything starts there, and I just feel like they take it more serious out there and I know that’s where I need to be. I hope to be in an environment where I can work to my full potential and more.”

We asked Reece if he had any long-term goals for once he reached America. But for Reece, it’s about focusing on one goal at a time: “I never look too far ahead I always just go with what I think is the next step for me. If it’s coming back to the UK or staying out in America and continuing my career there, I don’t mind. I just know want to become among the best in the industry. As long as I’m at the best place to progress and achieve.”

Peter Puertas Wins 4th Annual Wahl Online Barber Battle

Barbers performed three cuts in the competition to join the Wahl Education Team.

Wahl Professional is pleased to announce that Peter Puertas (@p.cuts) is the winner of the 4th Annual Online Wahl Barber Battle. Puertas has been awarded an honorary, year-long spot on the Wahl Field and Education Team, a complete 5 Star line of tools and a Wahl Prize Package. The barber calls Provo, Utah home, where he and his wife, Meghan, own a joint barbershop and salon called The Hideaway.

Barbers interested in participating in the battle had to submit a video of themselves performing the three designated cuts: the Afro, the Taper and their own Signature Cut. These cuts were picked by Wahl’s U.S. Director of Education, Lisa Finucane, and her panel of judges. They were chosen to test entrants’ skills and their ability to not only perform day-to-day cuts in the shop but unleash their creativity with their own Signature Cut. Once the submissions were gathered, the judges assessed entries on how the barbers not only showcased their skills but also educated viewers on their technique. Puertas prevailed in the intense judging process and was named champion.

“When Lisa and Byrd (@byrdmena) showed up at my shop, I didn’t realize what was happening until I saw the camera behind them and heard Lisa tell me that I was the winner of the Barber Battle. You couldn’t tell, but under my mask, I was smiling so big,” says Puertas as he recalls the moment, he found out he won the battle. 

Despite his victory, Puertas is new on the barbering scene. He went to Paul Mitchell and graduated in 2019 with a passion for education. He was motivated to submit a video for the battle, not once but twice. Only being a few weeks out of school, Puertas entered Barber Battle 3 in 2019 and cracked the Top 10. Puertas took that encouragement and let it fuel him to do better the next year.

When asked what his winning strategy was, Puertas noted that he wanted to not only create great cuts but also focus on his passion for barbering and education. Despite his early success, Puertas at first wasn’t sure about participating because of the COVID-19 pandemic. It wasn’t until he saw the announcement of the battle on YouTube and had the encouragement of his friends and family that he knew he should take another chance.

“My first clipper ever was Wahl and since then joining the Wahl team has always been a goal of mine. Every day I learn something new about the company, and each day it makes me even more thankful to be a part of the team. I love that Wahl focuses on quality over quantity,” says Puertas.

Finucane is always on the lookout for new talent to bring to the Wahl Education team. Her goal is to continue to propel the clipper manufacturer as a leading education source in the industry. When she saw Puertas’ submission video, she knew he could be a contender to join the Wahl team.

“It’s such a great feeling to know that you’re bringing someone into the industry who can help make a difference and who wants to be a part of something bigger. I’ve had a lot of mentors throughout my time in the industry and it’s going to be great to see Peter bring someone new into the industry himself and be a mentor for them, too,” says Finucane.

Following Puertas is Humberto Vasquez (@chuckyvasqz) in second place, earning a spot on the Wahl Select Team, Wahl tools, and a Wahl Prize Package. Jaida Whitfield (@jfiondrathebarber) placed third and received Wahl’s Barber Combo Set and Clipper and a Wahl Prize Package.

To view all three barber battle winners’ submission videos, go to WahlBarberBattle.com. Follow Wahl Professional on Instagram (@wahlpro) and sign up for their Ambassador Program here to stay up to date with upcoming events and programs.

Post-Lockdown Boosts from Haircuts4Homeless

It’s great to have lockdown eased, especially because charities like Haircuts4Homeless are back up and running, helping those in need. 

Haircuts4Homeless starts again today, the 14th April at Whitechapel Mission as well as 15 other projects reopening across the UK over the next two weeks.

Founder, Stewart Roberts says: 

“I can’t wait to get out there. Big love to everyone in the hairdressing industry and getting back to what we love is going to be so special.”

Homeless people have many challenges to face, one of them often being low self-esteem. A haircut can have a great effect on someone, giving them a real boost (especially after lockdown), however it is often way down on a homeless person’s priorities with what lack of money, so the service proves to be very popular.  One of people’s basic rights is to feel good about themselves, and this service can give this to people and bring a smile back to their lips.

Haircuts4Homeless is a registered charity set up by veteran hairdresser Stewart Roberts. Inspired by the actions of hairdressers in various parts of the world cutting hair for the homeless, Stewart set out not only to do this his self but to build a whole community of skilled hairdresser volunteers who give their time free of charge to give haircuts for homeless people.

Hairdressers have a known empathy and are great communicators. The industry is known for its generosity and willingness to help people therefore there are many that would willingly give some of their time and expertise. Haircuts4Homeless started the project in Havering and, with the right amount of support, plan to roll it out across the UK & beyond. There is something very personal about cutting someone’s hair that can be both enjoyable and therapeutic which is something that many homeless people rarely get.

It may be “just a haircut”, but it’s the kindness shown that makes a homeless person know that people really care.

To find out more, check out their Film with BEAUTY PAPERS or their podcast which they started during lockdown:  Hear Me, See Me

You can donate here: https://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/donation-web/charity?charityId=1017844&utm_source=extbtn&utm_campaign=donatebtn

American Crew Introduces 2021 Collection: HQ

As featured in the April edition of BarberEVO North America

American Crew® has introduced The 2021 Collection: HQ, a trend offering that takes old-school barber techniques to new heights.

This new collection features techniques that fuse clean editorial silhouettes with dramatic, exaggerated shapes. HQ, short for Height Quotient, is inspired by the military crew cut while paying homage to the nineties film and music eras. 

Embodying the perfect harmony between austere aesthetics and solid fundamentals, the curated program consists of six cuts and offers styling options for various hair densities and textures. With a focus on tapered barbered fades, HQ capitalizes on height as a level for disciplines and diverse creative expressions. 

“Men’s style is constantly evolving. By taking a step back from the meticulously groomed look, we are seeing a resurgence of dynamic shapes and texture — and our HQ Collection celebrates just that,” said American Crew Founder David Raccuglia, “HQ is a bold barber-centric collection that allows stylists to adapt any texture or type of hair to achieve the style their client desires. I absolutely love the fact that the shape of a haircut can cross into so many cultures.”

David continued: “Needless to say, our industry has been hit hard by the pandemic with the closures of barbershops, salons and schools. It’s been a challenging year for the Pro community, but their strength and resilience hasn’t kept them down. While their businesses have been shut, they’ve applied themselves to further their learning and precise their techniques – they really are some of the hardest working people out there! As a team, we knew we had to get creative and pivot our educational strategy to support the Pro when they need it the most and HQ has been our creative vehicle for that. We are offering a plethora of digital education with HQ so this is an incredible and very versatile collection that stylists and barbers around the world can utilize to learn new techniques.”

YAH YAH

Highlighting Yah Yah’s incredible texture, this cut features a strong square and tall technical shape throughout the front whilst focusing on a curved silhouette and a blown out, non-textured finish. The razor fade exaggerates a clean blend of skin to hair in the perimeter for strength and scalp exposure. 

Product used: American Crew® Ultra Gliding Shave Oil, Lather Shave Cream, Revitalizing Toner and Prep & Prime Tonic.

ANDREI

Andrei’s silhouette driven cut is a 90’s movies styling journey. Inspired by iconic looks featured in Rocky and Top Gun, and utilizing American Crew Boost Powder for extra volume, the hair is styled using an upward momentum to create the dramatic shape. 

Products used: American Crew® Prep & Prime Tonic and Boost Powder.

VIN

Vin’s structure contains a concave interior to recreate an editorial version of the traditional 50’s flat top. The strong silhouette helps build the exterior, exaggerating the clipper over comb enhanced interior, while the texture and separation results in a structured yet broken finish.

Products used: American Crew® Prep & Prime Tonic, Firm Hold Gel and Molding Clay.