Spring has sprung!

This issue is jam-packed to the brim with creative content, inspirational features, and real-life business advice, and tips from industry leaders. 

Pat Regan 

This issue’s front cover has been graced by godfather of fades, Pat Regan, aka Patty Cuts. We caught up with Pat to chat about his work with highflying UFC and NFL clients, as well as some of his current projects, such as his Signature BaByliss PRO Influencer Collection Trimmer, and his residency weekend in Old Spice’s brand-new brick and mortar barbershop. Pat tell us his inspiring story of how through determination and hard work he found his place in the industry. 

American Crew

American Crew have given us behind the scenes access to their latest collection, titled HQ. A stunning array of dramatic silhouette sand exaggerated shapes inspired by the military crew cut and paying homage to the nineties film and music era. Check out the old-school techniques that feature. 

Styling Tools and Products 

In this issue we take a deep dive into the toolboxes of the industry’s most elite brand ambassadors to find out what tools and products take them from great to greatest.  

We chat to everyone from American Crew All Star Canada Winner, Sandra Perovic, to official NFL Barber Fuss, to hear about what tools and products the most sought-after barbers are using day-to-day. 

We also caught up with Miguel Gutierrez aka Nomad Barber, Julius Cvesar and Sofie Pok, co-creators of their new Grooming Line, STMNT, about how the line started, and what they believe STMNT will bring to the industry. 

Franchising

We focus on franchising this issue as we talk to the most successful barbershop brands that have smashed the process of replicating their shops all over the country. We look at what a franchise offers the franchisee, and the benefits of picking up what is effectively already-made business in a box.

We caught up with Jim Valenzuela of V’s Barbershop, to find out what’s in the secret sauce for not only the expansion, but longevity of a franchise brand, as they approach twenty-two years of success. 

We also catch up some of the largest and most successful franchises in the States: Great Clips and Scissors and Scotch to talk education, business advice, and some of the pros of getting involved in a franchise. 

Shaving

Shaving is what sets barbers apart from the rest. A good shave is measured by more than just the result, it is about the customer experience. As barbers, you need to ensure you have the best techniques, products and tools to give clients that experience unlike any other.  

Columnist Tyrik Jackson gives us a brief history of shaving and the importance of making shaving an experience that brings guests back time after time. 

As well, we also chat with Woody Lovell, founder of the Barbershop Club in LA to chat about how his shop takes the experience of a barbershop shave to new levels. 

Dre Da Barber, educator for Woody’s and Clubman Pinault tells us about the importance of skincare, aftercare and health and safety when it comes to shaving, and making sure you are giving your client the ultimate long term results.

For more than 75 years, the budget-priced barbershop Astor Hair, in the cellar of 2 Astor Place, has been a New York icon. The legendary shop has seen thousands of clients from old and young, from students to stockbrokers.  

Unfortunately even icons such as Astor Hair are not immune to the effects of the pandemic. Due to restrictions, for much of the last year, Astor Hair was forced to close. When the end seemed near for Astor, a group of private investors led by Jonathan Trichter, stepped in to keep the place from closing.

Recently, the men’s grooming brand Harry’s has also stepped in to help keep the legend alive. Harry’s has stocked the place with thousands of its Truman Razors, one free to each of the first thousand people to walk in the shop. Harry’s has also recruited filmmaker and Instagram fave Nicolas “Nico” Heller to shoot a series of short videos about Astor Hair and its merry band of barbers, which will air on IGTV through the middle of April.

Harry’s general manager Jaime Crespo said, “We all thought it was a really important cause, but knew we wanted to do more than just donate product.” After all, free razors do little good when you have no customers.

Trichter was an unlikely savior for an independent hair salon. He’s managed digital startups, worked on large corporate restructurings including Hostess and, in 2018, he ran for state comptroller. But while Trichter’s most comfortable with a Wall Street close crop, he never lost his fondness for Astor Hair where he got his first “grown-up haircut” in 1985.

When he heard that Astor was having a close shave with bankruptcy, Trichter assembled a group of investors to take it over. According to Trichter’s LinkedIn page, Astor Hair—which kept all of its barbers on the payroll—returned to profitability in January of this year. Trichter considers the place to be “the most iconic barber shop in America.”

The last time Astor Hair came close to shutting its doors was during the 1970s, when New York City staggered through a financial crisis and a crime wave as many longtime residents fled for the suburbs. It saved itself by offering mohawks, fades and other cuts that won it a punk clientele. More recently, Astor Hair’s customers have included New York Mayor Bill de Blasio, who settled for a little off the top.

Those in Ohio thinking about getting into barbering or cosmetology, might be able qualify more quickly, if a bill that seeks to reduce the number of training hours is enacted into law.

Ohio lawmakers are holding hearings on a bill that would reduce the number of hours required to become a licensed cosmetologist or barber. It’s an issue that’s been debated in the legislature for years. 

Sen. Kristina Roegner  says reducing the required hours of training to become a cosmetologist or barber lowers the hurdles for a person wanting to join the profession in Ohio. 

“Individuals that want to work. A lot of them would be single moms and they want to be able to get a job and not have to incur this huge amount, excessive amount of tuition,” she said. 

Currently to get a license, a barber needs 1,800 hours of training. For a cosmetologist, 1,500 hours of training. The bill, SB133, would cut the hours for both professions to 1,000 hours. Roegner has introduced similar legislation in the past, dating back to 2017 (HB189) when it was a bipartisan bill with a Democratic co-sponsor.

To see more, visit The Statehouse News Bureau

Pete’s Barber Shop in Marquette, Michigan paired up with the Saint Baldrick’s Foundation for their first “Shave for the Brave” fundraiser Saturday.

Volunteer Tim Eagan said he’s been organizing the events for 12 years.

“I wanted to start it here in Marquette because I know what a giving, caring community this is and I thought this would be a perfect place to introduce St. Baldrick’s,” he said.

The event was introduced in one of the city’s longest operating hair salons, Pete’s Barbershop.

“I just think it’s a great cause that can help the kids out. If anybody’s ever had anything like this in their family, they (St. Baldrick’s Foundation) know exactly how you feel,” said Pete’s Barber Shop Owner and Barber Jim Bissonnette.

Saturday’s turnout included community members and local law enforcement from Michigan State Police and Marquette County Sheriff.

The fundraising event provided a chance to support childhood cancer treatment and research – and to spread awareness with your freshly bald head.

During the one day alone, they raised around a thousand dollars through donations from the community.

The next head-shaving fundraiser is on Wednesday, Mar. 24 at 6:00 p.m. (EDT) at the City of Marquette Fire Department.

Learn more about St. Baldrick’s and support the cause locally HERE.

Barbers and hairstylists in New York state are calling for their own eligibility for the COVID vaccine.

Dan Woycik owner of the Center Square Barber Shop on Lark Street in Albany NY.  

He says: “We think about the fact that we are, at a minimum, at close contact with somebody, in their personal space for 20 minutes at a time,” he said. “And if we’re shaving somebody or doing a beard trim, they have their mask off.” 

Dan Woycik added that he, and each barber at his shop sees roughly 15-20 clients every day.

During the pandemic, they shut down for three months. Woycik saw how happy his customers were to return. 

“When we first opened back up, for people to be able to do one normal thing again, to come into the barbershop and get a haircut, it was a big thing for a lot of people to be able to come back.”

He cleans the shop, gets tested regularly, and cuts down on the number of barbers who can work at the same time.  Each customer gets fresh smocks and towels, as well as the usual new razor blade. 

Many people are puzzled about why this industry hasn’t been added to the eligible list, including County Executive Dan McCoy, who spoke about it Monday. 

“The fact that they’re not on that list, they should be, because I’ve learned that people want their nail salons, their hairdressers and their barbershops, but they’re not on there,” said McCoy. 

The governor just lowered the age to 50, but Woycik says there are a lot of young people in this profession. 

“We take all the precautions we have to take, and we do our best to make sure everything is clean and sanitized, but we really feel that we’re being potentially exposed. Not being able to get the vaccine, and not being eligible for it at this point is — we feel like we’re being left out.”

After the pandemic left married couple, Becky Rawlinson and Chris Mooney, and their new-born baby without financial support, the couple decided to take the leap and create their dream business.

Becky’s job in the third sector got defunded and as a barber, Chris was left without income too.

With Chris taking over childcare for their now one-year-old daughter, Becky dedicated herself to her plant delivery business Little Wilderness.

Becky added “I had already developed my business before Covid into doing doorstep deliveries because I didn’t have a shop.

“So as soon as we went into lockdown, I was ready to bring people the things they wanted to their door.”

Now, they are set to open a store, Tenement, inspired by the idea of tenements serving as “multiple dwellings for lots of different people”.

“We thought the Tenement is a shop which is home to more than one project – it is home to a plant shop, a barber shop and we wanted for people in the community to be able to use it as well.

“We didn’t want too much of a barbershop name or too much of a plant shop name.”

Not wanting to prioritise one of their businesses over the other, they thought up a concept that works for both of them.

The store on Battlefield Avenue 11 will be home to Chris’ barbershop on weekdays and will completely transform to accommodate a plant shop on Sundays.

Custom-build shelving will allow them to create walls and easily pack away the barbershop when needed.

Becky added: “You can browse and shop if you are getting a haircut but the plant shop will not open for the general public to buy plants at the time.

“One of the things Chris really cares about is that his barbershop clients get a bit of privacy when they are getting a haircut. He wants the focus to be on them getting a haircut without people walking in and out.”

The space will also be available for hire in the evenings and will create a fresh community space for the area.

The duo are currently in the process of renovating the unit and ensuring it lives up to their unique vision. However, the recent announcement that hairdressers can reopen from April 5 has pushed them to speed up their work.

The plant store will officially open later in the month in line with the Scottish Government’s coronavirus guidance.

JPMS^™ has announced Michaeline DeJoria has been named Chief Executive Officer and Jason Yates to President of the company.

Michaeline began working at JPMS in 2007, starting on the production plant floor and following in nearly every department of the business. Ultimately, this led to her role as Vice Chairman, where she has directed the company’s future development for all brands.

Along with bringing extensive experience and expertise to her new role, DeJoria also brings a millennial edge as one of the industry’s youngest CEOs. Jason has been with JPMS since 2012 when he served as the Vice President of Marketing and later expanded his leadership role to include the sales department. In 2018, he was promoted to Chief Operating Officer.

In their new roles, Michaeline will be responsible for driving and directing overarching brand strategies across product, marketing and digital to usher in a new era of innovation, while Jason is continuing the work of operational efficiencies worldwide.

As of today, 15^th of March, hair and barbering services can resume practicing throughout Wales. Hairdressers and barbershops have been allowed to reopen strictly on an appointment basis, and only for ‘services that relate to cutting or treating hair on the head.’ Other barbering services such as shaving, waxing, threading etc, are still restricted as they fall under the ‘high risk zone.’ Other beauty services are projected to not reopen until the 12^th of April.

Mobile services can also resume from Monday 15 March, but only if there is not a ‘reasonable practical alternative to a home appointment,’ such as if the client is unable to physically leave their home, or if leaving their home might have significant detrimental effect on the wellbeing of the client.

Hairdressers/barbers also must wear a Type II mask and face visor for the entire time they are in a client’s home, and salons and barbershops must comply with Coronavirus Regulations set, such as maintaining physical distancing when possible, and using PPE properly and consistently.

For more information see the Welsh Government Guidelines for Hairdressing  and Barbering

The First Minister for Wales, Mark Drakeford, has today announced that hair and barbering businesses, including mobile, will reopen from Monday 15 March. The decision means that beauty businesses (that is close contact services, which includes nail salons and eyebrow bars) must remain closed until 12^th April, in line with England’s re-opening of non-essential businesses. The current measures are reviewed in three weeks’ time.

While pleased that those in hair and barbering can begin trading again from Monday, the NHBF is deeply disappointed with the Welsh Government’s decision to stagger the reopening of the sector without providing any scientific evidence to support the move.

The NHBF has stressed the damage that such a move will do to public confidence in the beauty sector and is continuing to make the case for the whole personal care sector to be reopened as soon as possible.

• What Welsh hair and barber businesses need to know:
• Services that relate to cutting or treating hair on the head can be provided. 
• Trimming or shaving facial hair (for example beards, moustaches or eyebrows) is not permitted. 
• ALL other close contact services will remain closed in Wales until further notice. 
• Staff should wear a Type II mask and a clear visor that covers the forehead, extends below the chin and wraps around the face.  
• The mask and visor are in addition to the PPE you normally wear when carrying out treatments, for example gloves or aprons.  The government guidelines also state that the most effective methods of preventing transmission of the virus are still social distancing and regular handwashing.  
• All hair and barbering businesses in Wales, whether premises based or mobile, must operate on a strict appointment-only basis. The guidance for Wales states that you should ask clients for each client’s contact details on the day of their appointment to help with the government’s ‘Test, Trace, Protect’ service. 

Financial Support

• The business rates holiday has been extended for the rest of the financial year.
• Personal care businesses that pay business rates and have to remain closed will be able to claim for a third grant of between £4-5,000.
• Those who have previously received a grant from the Business Restrictions Fund will receive the payment in March.
• Any business which has not previously claimed can register with their local authority from Monday 15 March until 5.00pm on 31 March.

The NHBF is pushing for further financial support for businesses which remain closed, those who either will face a significant shortfall or for whom it is not financially viable to reopen if they cannot offer full services.

Richard Lambert, NHBF Chief Executive said “The fact that hair salons and barbershops, as well as mobile stylists, can get back to work is good news, but we are baffled by the decision to phase the reopening of our whole sector.  There seems to be no clear explanation or evidence for delaying the beauty sector re-opening.  It’s like allowing bookshops to re-open but keeping the non-fiction section closed.”

“These businesses are literally on the brink.  We know that financial support from the Welsh Government, whilst welcome, is just not meeting the fixed costs businesses have going out each month. We have lost ten per cent of the industry already, with more to follow unless we can get doors open and money coming in. If the Welsh Government is adamant that this is not yet possible, then they must ensure that financial support gets through to these businesses in dire need before more go under.”

The NHBF is pushing for further financial support for businesses which either will face a significant shortfall or for whom it is not financially viable to reopen if they cannot offer full services.

Hair and barbering businesses must follow the Welsh Government’s updated guidance which is available at https://gov.wales/covid-19-alert-levels and as previously, are legally required to carry out a COVID-19 risk assessment.

More information on the latest announcement can be found via the NHBF Coronavirus Hub at www.nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus.

The Hair and Barber Council have just announced the following regarding their collaboration with Salon Owners United:

The Hair & Barber Council (HBC) together with Salon Owners United (SOU) are forming a collaboration to further strengthen and amplify the voice of Hair Professionals and Barber Professionals throughout the United Kingdom.

As the ONLY Statutory Authority for the sector, campaigning amongst other things for mandatory registration of the industry, the Hair & Barber Council continues it’s work with industry and the Government representing it’s 10,500 registered members, Associate and Corporate members, and together with Salon Owners United 5,500 members, will work closely together to ensure the voice of our sector is heard.

Keith Conniford, Registrar and CEO of the Hair & Barber Council said: “We are delighted to be working closely with Collette Osborne and the members of Salon Owners United who share the same passion and mission to ensure our sector attains the professional status it both needs and deserves. We greatly admire Collette’s huge commitment and energy she has for our industry, together with the knowledge and experience she brings, together with her members, to this collaboration.

“Based upon mutual aims and trust, with no agenda other than the betterment of our great industry, our joint aim is this collaboration will grow and become more formal in the months to come. Our industry has been hugely impacted by Coronavirus, and never before has the industry needed a more united voice for Hair Professionals and Barber Professionals!”

Collette Osborne of Salon Owners United said: “If the pandemic has done anything it has exposed the fault lines and weaknesses in our industry, so I believe if we are to recover stronger, we need to have one collective voice, which we can use to invoke the change much needed to provide us with a sustainable future.

“The Hair & Barber Council and Keith Conniford have been a tower of strength to Salon Owners United throughout this crisis being my one trusted source of support and guidance for our members when they needed it most for which I will be forever grateful.

“I am delighted to be working alongside Keith Conniford for whom I have the utmost respect both personally and professionally and through our collaboration I can honestly say we will work tirelessly for the hair and barbering industry just as Keith has done for many years.”

The Hair and Barber Councils strapline is ‘Shaping the Future Together’

Together we are stronger – One mission – One voice!