The NHBF has released a statement welcoming the support for the hair & beauty sector in Chancellor Rishi Sunak’s Budget as a success for its lobbying efforts over the past year.

Personal Care is one of the only sectors due to re-open in Step 2 (currently expected from 12^th April) where businesses will be eligible to receive a one-off cash grant of up to £18,000. Details on how to apply will be announced in the next week.

Salon owners will also be supported by:

• Furlough (Coronavirus Job Support Scheme) being extended to September 2021 across the UK. 
• A new UK-wide Recovery Loan Scheme to make available loans between £25,001 and £10 million to help businesses of all sizes through the next stage of recovery.
• Small and medium-sized employers in the UK will continue to be able to reclaim up to two weeks of eligible Statutory Sick Pay (SSP) costs per employee from the Government.
• In England, business rates relief of 100% until the end of June and then a discount of two-thirds until the end of the year.
• Corporation Tax will remain at 19% until 2023, staying at this level for those with profits of £50,000 or less. It will then be tapered, with only those generating £250,000 or more in profit being charged 25%.

For self-employed hair & beauty professionals:

• The UK-wide Self Employment Income Support scheme is being extended to September 2021, and everyone who filed a tax return in 2019-20 is now able to claim for the first time. 
• Those whose turnover has fallen by over 30% can claim 80% back and those who have lost less than 30% of turnover can claim 30%.

Local authorities in England will also be given an additional £425m to support businesses who have fallen through the gaps in support and may not be eligible for restart grants.

Richard Lambert, Chief Executive, National Hair & Beauty Federation says, 

“We welcome this budget. We’ve worked hard to inform and educate the government about our sector, particularly through our recent report, An Industry at The Sharp End.  Their improved understanding is reflected in the whole package – above all, in securing the higher grants for Personal Care.

“We were worried that the most vulnerable in our sector would find it hard to survive to re-open, but both the Restart Grant and further funding for the self-employed have thrown a lifeline to struggling businesses and professionals.

“We will continue to press the case for a short-term reduction in VAT to help the hardest-hit hair & beauty businesses to recover.”

BABTAC, British Beauty Council, NHBF and UK Spa Association have been working as part of a COVID Coalition to make a case to Government for the need for targeted support for our sector. This has included formulating a robust and fully costed proposal for an immediate recovery fund for the personal care sector and a cut in VAT to five per cent once reopened in order to counter the effects of working at reduced capacity due to social distancing requirements. The Coalition continues to work together for the good of the sector to campaign for improvements in recognition and support for our sector now and going forward.

Full details of the budget can be found on the Government website.

AT LAST, THERE IS A GLIMMER OF LIGHT ON THE HORIZON. SHAKING AWAY THOSE WINTER BLUES, WE ARE LOOKING INTO THIS SPRING WITH OPTIMISM AND ENTHUSIASM AND ARE CONTINUALLY INSPIRED BY THE TALENT AND PERSEVERANCE WITHIN THE INDUSTRY. 

Allan Stone

We would also like to mark the passing of our dear friend, and industry legend, Allan Stone of Stoney’s Barbershop in South Shields. A grand master barber, an educator, and one of the soundest lads in the industry. You will be greatly missed Stoney. 

This issue features a touching tribute to Allan Stone by Vikki Harrison-Smith, remembering Stoney, his victories, and all the joy he brought to the industry. 

Events

We are delighted to showcase Wahl Barber of the Year: Kilian Maddison, this issue. We caught up with Kilian about what winning the title meant to him, how he has been coping with lockdown this year, and what is next on the bucket list. 

We are also looking forward to some of this year’s events such as BarbersRide 2021, which will take place this in August, raising funds for Make-A-Wish foundation. These crazy barbers will be hopping on their motorbikes for a road trip of a lifetime: from Liverpool to Fort William, and back down to Leeds, visiting incredible barbershops along the way. 

We are also looking forward to this year’s Barber Connect. We spoke to Matt Brice from Barber Blades, and organiser of Barber Connect – who has had a year to think about the future for the UK’s largest barber event, after last year’s event was cancelled due to the current pandemic. We speak to him about the chances of the show going ahead this year.

Interiors

We spoke to owners of what we think are some of the UK’s most aesthetically impressive barbershops, such as Alternative Barbering Co, Kitch Hair, Tallboys, and Avanzato Grooming. In this segment, we talk inspiration, design, ergonomics, practicality, and even, ‘instagramability.’ Learn how to create a space that not only draws clients in but makes them want to stay forever—or at least come back, time and time again. 

Speaking of design and ergonomics, we also celebrate Takara Belmont’s centenary in this issue, and their one hundred years of comfort, style and evolution. 

Apprenticeships

We were lucky enough to catch up with Jody Taylor, highly acclaimed session stylist and BaByliss ambassador, to hear about how he found his way into the industry. With Jody, we talked about apprenticeships and how he went from making ups of tea at Toni & Guy, to working with some of the world’s best hairdressers, fashion designers and magazines. Jody also offers advice for those just looking to get started in the industry.  

We also chat with Robert Rix and Paddy Hunter, to hear their two-cents about apprenticeships, building skills of the trade, and their personal experience with apprenticeships. 

Enjoy the read, as always, we’ve enjoyed pulling the issue together and we hope you enjoy it too. 

You can purchase a hard copy here.

HQ A trend offering that takes old-school barber techniques to new heights

American Crew®, the Official Supplier to Men, introduces The 2021 Collection: HQ, a new collection of techniques that fuse clean editorial silhouettes with dramatic, exaggerated shapes. HQ, short for Height Quotient, is inspired by the military crew cut while paying homage to the nineties film and music eras.

 Embodying the perfect harmony between austere aesthetics and solid fundamentals, the curated program consists of six cuts and offers styling options for various hair densities and textures. With a focus on tapered barbered fades, HQ capitalizes on height as a level for disciplines and diverse creative expressions.

 “Men’s style is constantly evolving. By taking a step back from the meticulously groomed look, we are seeing a resurgence of dynamic shapes and texture—and our HQ Collection celebrates just that,” said American Crew Founder David Raccuglia, “HQ is a bold barber-centric collection that allows stylists to adapt any texture or type of hair to achieve the style their client desires. I absolutely love the fact that the shape of a haircut can cross into so many cultures.”

YAH YAH

Highlighting Yah Yah’s incredible texture, this cut features a strong square and tall technical shape throughout the front whilst focusing on a curved silhouette and a blown out, non-textured finish. The razor fade exaggerates a clean blend of skin to hair in the perimeter for strength and scalp exposure.

Product used: American Crew® Ultra Gliding Shave Oil, Lather Shave Cream, Revitalizing Toner and Prep & Prime Tonic

 ANDREI

Andrei’s silhouette driven cut is a 90’s movies styling journey. Inspired by iconic looks featured in Rocky and Top Gun, and utilizing American Crew Boost Powder for extra volume, the hair is styled using an upward momentum to create the dramatic shape.

Products used: American Crew® Prep & Prime Tonic and Boost Powder

VIN

Vin’s structure contains a concave interior to recreate an editorial version of the traditional 50’s flat top. The strong silhouette helps build the exterior, exaggerating the clipper over comb enhanced interior, while the texture and separation results in a structured yet broken finish.

Products used: American Crew® Prep & Prime Tonic, Firm Hold Gel and Molding Clay

To learn more about the looks from the HQ Collection tune in to the digital launch on March 1st, 2021. Details to be released on @AmericanCrew on Instagram and Facebook, and www.americancrew.com

American Crew is also hosting a Facebook event HQ Collection / 2021 Trend Collection Launch at 4pm UTC www.facebook.com/events/168410511587858/)

Boris Johnson’s Road Map to announced yesterday suggests salons and barbershops may be able to return after April 12^th, 2021.

In Step 2, which is projected to start on 12^th of April, hairdressers and other personal care will be allowed to reopen, as well as non-essential retail, and outdoor dining and pubs.

The second step will also allow weddings to increase in size to up to 15 people.

The government suggests that as of May 17, indoor searing can resume in pubs and restaurants, indoor entertainment such as cinemas and theatres can resume, and weddings will be able to include up to 30 people.

Johnson’s 4^th step suggests a return to complete normality as of June 21.

For Scotland, Nicola Sturgeon has just announced that salons and barbershops to be allowed to reopen on April 26th.

A specific date for Wales to reopen salons and barbershops is yet to be announced.

This means, however, salons and barbershops in England and Scotland may be able to hesitantly begin their plan to reopen and get their schedules in order, so the public has time to get their lockdown hair sorted before pubs reopen.

Old Spice, owned by Procter & Gamble, plans to open its own barber shop in Ohio, bringing celebrity hair stylists to Columbus. The brick and mortar barbershop is scheduled to open on March 1, 2021.

Celebrity barbers like Florido, Benjamin Thigpen, Matt Johnston and Pat Regan are scheduled to visit the barbershop for its residency week to shoot videos, lead information sessions and style hair, the news release said.

The shop will also include a content studio to produce hair styling videos for Old Spice’s social media channels and will also carry Old Spice grooming products such as shampoo, hair stylers, deodorant and body wash will be available at the shop.

 The barbershop also plans to include a Brioso roastery and coffee bar also is part of the plan.

pcooley@dispatch.com

@PatrickACooley

Wahl (UK) have launched Team Talk: Live with WAHL, to support the barbering and hairdressing industry, focusing on the teams and individuals behind the salons and shops.

Wahl’s initiative offers salons and shops a free 1 hour, dedicated and personalised session to engage with each other and an industry expert from the WAHL UK Education & Artistic Team. It provides an opportunity to ask questions about the industry, hair cutting techniques, learn about products or seek advice on building your business and your team. Most importantly, it’s a chance to motivate your team and re-connect with each other.

“The idea behind Team Talk is for me and the Wahl team to meet all the wonderful barbers and hairdressers in this difficult time of Lockdown. The goal is to share some knowledge, raise a smile and feel united together!” Says Simon Shaw, WAHL Global Artistic Director.

Wahl’s Team Talk hopes to help you re-energise, re-focus and re-connect with your team.  Each session will be tailored to your team and completely personal. The sessions also offer an opportunity to motivate your team, re-energise and feel good about the future. As well, Team Talks will provide free advice and education from industry experts on haircuts and techniques, tool maintenance, industry insights and business improvements.

Applications: To find out more and apply for a Team Talk Live with WAHL, head to WAHL.CO.UK. Media enquiries: Nicola.Barnes@wahl.co.uk | 01227 744327

The Bearded Goat, from Washington entrepreneurs Eric Renfro, Jon Dodson, and Scott Parker, is opening its third location, at the Village at Shirlington. It will be located 4150 Campbell Ave.

“The Village at Shirlington is the ideal location for Bearded Goat Barber to open its third location,” writes co-founder Scott Parker in a press release. “Having opened our first shop in Ballston in 2019, and our second location in Navy Yard in Washington, DC this year, we are focused on neighborhoods that are future-focused, while retaining a certain charm.”

The barber shop will, of course, adhere to strict CDC guidelines, according to the release.

This includes santaizing workspaces, tools, chairs, capes, and waiting areas in between all visits. Masks are also required to be worn at all times by both patrons and employees, through the entire grooming experience.

The first Bearded Goat Barber location opened in Ballston about two years ago. It temporarily shut down last March due to the pandemic and reopened in May with new safety and health guidelines in place. The second location recently opened in Navy Yard in Southeast D.C.

The upscale barber shop is a partnership between two barbers, Renfro and Dodson, who were previously working at Clarendon’s Hendrick Barbershop, and serial local entrepreneur Parker.

The findings of a recent report by The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) shows that salon and barbershop revenue fell by 45% in 2020, compared to 2019.

The report, titled, Hair, beauty and the pandemic: An industry at the sharp end. The impact of coronavirus on business vulnerability and the potential for mitigating measures, found that the hair and barbering industry are some of the most affected sectors since the pandemic restrictions hit.

Commissioned from independent analysts Pragmatix Advisory by the NHBF, the report details the current situation for the industry, the strength of the sector prior to the pandemic and the urgent measures required to ensure that the majority of the industry survives, which long term, will cost the Government very little.

The highlight findings of the report were that salon capacity is down to 70% of what it was pre-pandemic, losing an average of two hours of appointment time per stylist per day. With reduced customer demand.

Full time employment figures have dropped by 21% on 2019, with the average cash loss to business for 2020 being £17,000, with those over the tax threshold taking an even bigger hit.

With no support from Government, the prediction is that many businesses in the sector are acutely vulnerable to failure in the next 12 months, as 2021 is predicted to be as tough as last year.

A worrying figure was revealed where 60% of businesses entered 2021 with no cash reserves, and one in 10 businesses did not return any income or dividend to their owners or managers in 2020. At this rate, without further support, most expect to survive two to three months (from January), if lockdown continues.

The report revealed that the crisis has had a disproportionate impact on women and those in deprived communities – hair and beauty business owners are 82% female with an 88% female workforce.

There is a higher proportion of Personal Care businesses than any other sector in the most deprived areas of the UK. The closure of these businesses poses greatest risk to those in the local community who are most likely to be employed in these salons and barbershops.

How the Government can help

By reducing VAT to 5% would add £16,000 to the average VAT registered business, closing the cash gap by one-third. This would reduce to 6% the proportion of businesses not returning anything to their owners or managers.

If 18% of the businesses which would have otherwise failed survive as a result of reducing VAT to 5%, then the policy pays for itself through the taxes they will pay.

Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive says: “Whilst the future could be bleak for the personal care sector, intervention now and immediately following re-opening will have a life-changing positive effect. There’s nothing coming in, but the overheads still have to be paid. When we are closed, we are closed.  We can’t diversify into takeaways and online sales. 

“The Personal Care sector is calling for a specific grant to support businesses through the immediate cashflow crisis, in line with similar funds that have been afforded to many other sectors, including the arts, hospitality and leisure, and the aeronautical industry, among others.”

He continues: “We also need support after re-opening to keep cash in these businesses so they can recover. The bigger businesses have been hit the hardest and are now the most vulnerable to failure. A targeted VAT cut to 5% would allow them to re-build, invest in staff and apprentices, and once again be the heart of their high streets and communities.  We’ve shown this move will pay for itself, so it’s a cost-effective solution for the Government.

“Right now, it feels like we are last in line for support, flippantly disregarded within Parliament and overlooked by Government, despite the billions of pounds we contribute to the economy each year.”

The NHBF, working together with the British Beauty Council (BBC), British Association of Beauty Therapists and Cosmetologists (BABTAC) and UK Spa Association, has been lobbying the Department for Business (BEIS), the Treasury and the Cabinet Office for an urgent Personal Care crisis fund and a reduction in VAT.

What is the future of independent businesses? And more importantly, what do you want it to be?

The Retail Mutual has requested the opinions of the UK’s shop owners, retailers, and independent businesses on and off the High Street, just by taking part in their simple survey.

The survey invites independent business owners to say what you think is the future of independent businesses in your local area.

To take the survey: click here

After opening up to social media about her hair disaster, Teresa Brown’s story went viral, leading to over $21,000 raised to help.

After running out of her usual styling spray, Brown used the strong spray adhesive, Gorilla Glue, on her hair. In her video, Brown showed the world how her hair stuck permanently to her scalp, “I have washed it fifteen times and it don’t move!”

After a month of trying to extricate the glue using coconut oil and tea tree oil, Brown still was having no luck washing the product out.

After putting up the video, Brown set up a GoFundMe page with the target of $1,500, to help pay for the inevitable hospital bills. However, due to her unlikely internet fame, viewers sympathy of Brown led to surpass her target by $20,000.

Additionally, LA doctor Michael Obeng carried out treatment to fix her ordeal, which would have cost $12,500, for free.

To sort out the damage done by the glue, Dr. Obeng placed Brown under light-anaesthesia for the four-hour procedure. After figuring out the compound in the glue, Obeng used a combination of medical grade adhesive remover, aloe vera, olive oil and acetone to break down the compound. He also experimented with real human hair on a model, before working on Brown’s hair.

Gorilla Glue have issued a statement saying: “We strongly discourage misuse of our products. Please consult all packaging labels for proper use.”

Let’s hope Brown’s ordeal is a lesson for future, for anyone who has run out of their usual styling products.